[EN/OP7] Joshua: 1st Place with Enel at Melbourne regionals

Introduction

Hi my name is Joshua. I'm from Australia and I have been playing one piece since the end of op05. Fell in love with the game instantly and have been grinding ever since. Being relatively new havent had the chance to play in too many events but I think 2 top 64 online tournaments and a top 16 online regional. Then obviously my most recent win at the Melbourne regionals. Might seem dumb but I still dont think by no means i'm one of the best players or anything but it does show if you really put the right time and effort into the game you really can produce some nice results. That and maybe getting blessed with some nice triggers…

Anyway let's get into why and how to play my glorious king Enel.

Why Enel Deck

Picking Enel for the regionals sort of just made sense to me. An underrated thing i really like about enel and i feel no one really mentions, is that i feel enel doesn't really have any terrible matchups (outside of nami cause that's basically unwinnable lol). It also doesn't really have any super super favorable matchups but i like that pretty much every game i go into i can win. Enel is also one of the best decks to play for long tourneys in my opinion. Going hand in hand with what I was saying about being able to win anything, a lot of the time as long as you really know what you're doing, if your opponent makes even one small misplay you can capitalize on that and win from there. This can happen more than you think, especially in these long days of swiss. A lot of my games in swiss were won off the back of a small mistake from my opponent. I'm probably gonna mention this is each matchup but overall player skill and knowledge of the matchup can genuinely change matchups from 50/50 to 60/40 or even 70/30 in either player's favor.

 As for the decklist choice there's a surprising amount of ratio and tech choices you can make for enel. I went through tons of different decklists before settling on my current one. 2 weeks before the Melbourne regional I had an online regional where I got top 64. The decklist from then to now is quite different.

Online regional June 29th version:

Online regional June 29th

Melbourne Regional July 14th version:

Click into the link for decklist in One Piece Top Decks

Matchups

I will go into more detail on why I chose and cut certain cards later on but my general philosophy was I wanted a decklist that was just overall consistent in any matchup. And also that had lots of nice triggers haha. I think this idea definitely worked out as i feel on some older iterations of the deck i could have been as consistent, even if those older decklists were maybe better into certain matchups 

I'll go into the matchups now. In terms of winning in swiss into the whole thing well… someone has too. I really don't think i did anything too crazy, at any point i easily could have dropped a game. However, I will try my best to explain what I did in each matchup and sort of link it back to what I explained at the start as to why I even picked enel to start with. Despite this being one of the most diverse metas I somehow only ran into three decks mainly in Lucci, Bonney and rp law (one enel mirror in top cut too). So I will go into detail about these three as well as the mirror, by luffy and will briefly touch doffy/boa and other less represented decks. I don't want to give to much away lol so its going to be more general gameplans rather then really getting down to small fundamental plays, but ill try my best to be as informative as i can!

Swiss matchups:

Lucci, Bonney, Bonney , Lucci , Bonney, Bonney , Lucci, Rp law, Rp law

Top cut:

Lucci, Enel, Lucci

Finals: Rp law

Lucci 40/60

Depending on your opponents skill level this can be more of a 50/50 or on the other hand 30-70 if there really good and you don't draw well/bad triggers

Mulligen: 7c enel, raigo, 5c gedatsu/shirahoshi, blocker shirahoshi, Katakuri > Ace > Yamato

Dice roll: choose first

On paper this is a hard matchup and don't get me wrong it definitely isn't my favorite matchup to play. But there are things we can do to try to bridge that gap to a 50/50 or better, particularly depending on how good of a pilot your opponent is. This really comes down to playing the correct bodies (or events as ill mention later) at the correct times and understanding when to go for life or for board. Some may disagree with me on this but I believe its actually better to be super aggressive in this matchup and not bother starving. Because i like to katakuri their big drops into life, hitting them early prevents the game from running to long, which is where we can end up losing. It gets to the point where if you were starving them they just have to much life and you can effectively get them low enough before they kill you. I could be wrong here but thats my experience with it and it seemed to work out. A small caviar here is if you know you're going to play yamato on curve then you can always consider what you want to ko with it and play around there life with that in mind. Same thing with Gedatsu, actually if you have it to play down on 5 Don to KO something it’s fine to also do that then swing at lead. Don't forget your sequencing!

7c rush Enel is the undisputed MVP of this matchup. It single handedly makes it manageable and you should muggling for it everytime. Getting him down on the curve is vital to making the matchup more winnable. Having a 7k swing every turn is so huge against lucci who otherwise will basically always remove whatever you play down. They tend to not even try to remove enel; technically it can be double removed but it's hard for them to find the correct timing and resources to do this. So make sure you are countering your life appropriately so if they try to remove it you can comfortably use 7c Enels effect to trash your life and still use your leader's effect, so he sticks on the board. If you take a swing to life too greedily and you're then forced to decide to trash your last life or let your Enel go, you are in a much worse position. So keep this in mind when deciding when to counter out and when to take/trash life. Other than Enel, I actually think katakuri is really strong in this matchup. Assuming you go first, they will drop an 8 drop on their 8 don curve, regardless of what it is (issho, moria, sabo) . Being able to katakuri it on your following turn is huge for tempo. This is where I'd also like to mention Raigo, particularly for Issho. If Issho sticks, it's very easy for them to remove whatever you play on your turn, more than it already is. So he has to go asap everytime he is played. So if i don't have a katakuri for him I will often Raigo it and use that extra don to play down the 2 cost Shirahoshi and swing aggressively at the leader.

Thats a good segway into the 2c shira blocker. She is also huge for this matchup along with 7c enel. If your able to find the right time to have one of the board its just such a nice little failsafe. Cause yes it gives a life if they KO it but more often than not they just leave it and even then you can be more greedy taking life knowing you can't die with that extra blocker on board. It's also nice if they decide to swing big into one of your bodies on board and you can just block and not waste cards in hand. A nice play I like to do with 10 don (this is for any matchup honestly) is to play katakuri to either heal or remove one of their bodies then use the last 2 don to play the shira blocker down. Be wary of 6c brook that can remove your blocker without trigger its heal effect. So if there's a path for lethal with 6c brook be aware of that potential.

Outside of this it's kinda just a standard Enel gameplan. Keep playing down your big bodies while clearing board/going for life as appropriate and if they miss clearing one of your big bodies even once you're in a great spot. Try to hold the advantage from there, pray for some nice tempo changing triggers and go for game.

Bonney 50/50

Probably gonna say this for all the matchups but again it comes down to each player's overall skill. This can easily become a 60/40 or more in either decks favor depending on skill level and matchup knowledge 

Mulligen: Raigo, Katakuri, Gedatsu, Ace/Yamato, Flampe

Dice roll: Go second, this is more to take away their curve, going first honestly isn't that bad either. I lost all my dice rolls except for one against my Bonney matchups lol.

Bonney can either be a breeze or a nightmare depending on what each player draw. I like to starve the Bonney, at least till my 9 or 10 don turns. Not only can you clear whatever they place with Gedatsu this way but half the time they end up just not playing anything which is also fine because they are not building their board. Once you get to the later turns, starting to swing is fine, especially if you're gonna katakuri their bodies into their life. Just always remember to sequence correctly when attacking because of the bonnie leader effect that can rest your big bodies. You're just giving them a free 10c Doffy value if you let them rest big characters you just played. Small note that using Flampe if you get it early is nice because Bonney players will often starve you as well.

It goes without saying you absolutely need Raigo for their 9c zoro or you basically lose. I was very lucky in most of my games my opponent never got it down. The one game they did place it, I didn't have Raigo in hand and it was extremely close because of it. So save Raigo for zoro and use katakuri for 8c Kid. If I see these two cards in my opening hand I'm keeping it regardless of the rest of my hand. This matchup really does come down to having the correct answer for each of their top end.

Now while zoro certainly is concerned I am low key am more worried about 10c doffy. A sure way to lose to Bonney is if there able to chain multiple 10c Doffys down without you being able to respond. So make sure this is always in the back of your mind. Don't go mindlessly swinging everything just for them to all be permanently frozen. If this does happen I sometimes will then use Raigo to clear the Doffy they played and maybe use that extra don to establish the blocker (again remember to sequence right if you also attack so they don't just rest the blocker you just played). Now this goes right against what i just said about saving raigo for zoro. However if at any point from here on they play zoro, that's their entire turn gone. From here your free to start aggressively swinging into life. If you also get a rush ace down on the clapback to heal and get that extra swing there in a rough spot. Even if they go all in with zoro next turn they probably cant heal you plus you probably have a blocker down too. If they doffy that next turn instead then the zoro isnt swinging in. To be fair they can just keep playing down 10c doffy which is where it gets much harder but honestly its hard for them to always have the correct big bodies themselves and I mean if they have they have it. We just gotta do our best to play around what the have

If you aren't able to answer 8c kid because they have a rosinante blocker and you have no katakuri, remember you can always use yamato to KO the rosinate and then swing into the kid. You can often swing an Ace into the Kid first and see what they do. If they block, which they probably won't, but if they do then you can just attach more Don to your other characters and swing big into it. If they use two cards out of hand, which is more likely, that's when you can still play down the yamato to KO Rosi anyway. Reducing their hand size is very important when going for game.

So it's this weird back and forth of making sure you have the correct answers for their top end until you're in a good spot to start swinging for game. They will eventually run out of resources if you play it correctly and it's a pretty easy finish from there. Just make sure you really know what all their cards do. You can't afford silly mistakes like trying to ko a rested big body with Raigo when they have a rosinante blocker on board for example or leaving yourself open for lethal by forgetting about rush Hody. Any small error like this will cost you the game, just as one from their end will also cost them the game. There definitely more to this matchup but the best way to really figure out all the ins and outs in just playing against it tons, ideally against a good pilot

Rp law 50/50

I do think this one is a true 50/50, assuming the rp law player is a good pilot.

Mulligen: Getadsu, Yamato, ace, 5c Shirahoshi, egghead luffy

Dice roll: Definitely first, the matchup immediately becomes more difficult if you don't get first. They are able to be more aggressive with the earlier swings and more importantly you can't get your Gedatsu and Yamato down on their respective curves. Its not unwinnable or anything going second but it certainly makers it harder.

Going into the regional for 1 i thought there was gonna be tons of rp law which there really wasnt and 2 this was honestly a matchup I was quite confident in and barely lost it when playing at locals or on the sim. And it honestly can continue to feel quite easy into a lot of rp laws. But I have definitely reconsidered my stance on this after the regional. I faced rp law only at the very end top tables and wow there was such a big skill difference from just regular rp law players to my top table/swiss rp law opponents. Rp law can very easily rush you down before you can even get to 9 or 10 don and with appropriate don management can make it such an uphill battle to where you're constantly in danger of dying. A good player can very easily run you over before you even get to your big bodies. 

The one good thing is that rp law has to draw into everything they need. So if they aren't able to do that it can still remain pretty manageable even against a good pilot. It's the combination of a skilled pilot, getting all there draw power cards (reiju/queen) into the rush cards, namely kid and killer; that's where it can get really scary.

The general game plan is to starve them of resources and control their board. Since they rely so heavily on drawing the cards they need the less chances you give them to do that the better. They quite literally have to top deck everything they need and if those top decks aren't reiju or queen they are in trouble. The other reason is so we can keep their board in check with gedatsu and yamato. A more skilled rp law pilot might not play any 4 costs and wait for 6 don to play down kid or queen and go from there, but even then that's at least not as much pressure coming onto you too early on. Even then i still wont start swinging until i have at least 2 big bodies down. Cause if there at 4 and your at 1 you are still able to ko there annoying 5c bodies, you're mainly aiming for 5c kid blocker as the priority target but it's also nice to clear queen and miss all sunday. So it's sort of just a rinse and repeat of that, clearing their board with establishing bodies. If you're able to go this for a few turns successfully they will just run out of steam and not be able to do anything at 3+ massive swings at their life.

The other big thing I'd say about this matchup is really knowing when to counter swings and when to take life. This is actually a core skill that is so essential to enel overall so this is something I'd highly recommend intentionally practicing and actively thinking about when you're playing. Make sure you're really thinking about every possible outcome when you're countering or just taking it. Think of the worst outcome for when making the decisions. On the other hand though also keep in mind your potential triggers. This is another part on enel. Players who don't understand will just blame the triggers on luck but there's truly something to taking certain swings just on the chance it could be a ko trigger which taking that chance at the correct time can swing the momentum into your favor by a lot. So yeah overall stick to that starve plan, counter and take life appropriately and once they have run out of resources go big for the game!

BY Luffy 50/50

This is quite literally the definition of whoever draws better lol

Mulligen: Katakuri, raigo, Ace < Yamato, shirahoshi blocker, 5c shirahoshi

Dice roll: Go second, always take away second from luffy when you can, it really makes a difference.

Luffy is an interesting matchup, one I didn't actually face during the regionals which I'm honestly glad for. If they are able to get everything they need it feels so hard to beat so it's kinda a scary matchup. Best we can do is starve them of course, force them to have the cards they need to reduce their life to 0. If they play the self dmg luffy i would always raigo it immediately even if i have to trash life for it. Anything to stall from getting to 0 is huge. That's honestly the game plan; stall them out as much as we can while building up our big bodies so we can effectively swing into what will normally be a 9k leader. Another great way to stall is to katakuri something into their life making it harder for them to get to 0. If you katakuri something that's not one of the brothers, the Garp searcher or Ivankov blocker for example, they have to have a way to trash it to get rid of it. Whereas if you kata a brother it's still ok cause they need to spend the 2 don and have the correct kid in hand and they cant leader effect and use moria during the same turn. One small thing you can do which is kinda situational but it's interesting to try is katakuri one of the brothers on top of their life then swinging into it. It's a weird situation where they are either forced to counter it and thus stalling them out longer or they take the hit and the brother goes to the bottom of the deck. Will also mention the 2c Shirohoshi blocker is also amazing in this matchup as they have no real good way of removing it and can take that big luffy leader swing. If they want to use egghead luffy to pop it then by all means just give us more life and time to build a board.

There's really not too much more to it, if they get everything they need and drop multiple morais its basically impossible to win. If you can stall them out and build your board they eventually will run out of cards to defend your big swings. A lot of lists run the 5c sabo that trashes your life then ko a 5c which is super effective into this matchup, being able to get rid of the self damaging luffy on curve is too good. I just didnt like having a card for essentially just one matchup, yes it's usable and even quite nice in other matchups too (5c kid in rp law and cavendish in bonney) but I found just focusing more on having triggers and just consistency for all decks was better. Which did pay off since I didn't face any by luffy but if the deck started popping up a lot more I would most likely change some ratios and add some 5c sabo.

Blue boa/doffy 50/50

Mulligen: gedatsu, yamato, katakuri/ace, raigo

Dice roll: go first, just for the gedatsu and yama on curve but its not game ruining to go 2nd.

The blue matchup is honestly something I dread just because of one card, pudding. I actually hate this card so much it fully counters enel whole plan of just taking life and building up a hand for late game. It's hard to play around too cause unless you're gonna counter everything then you're always going to have more than 5 cards in hand. My best advice would be to stay around 7 cards so if you get hit with pudding it doesn't hurt too much. You can't change your whole plan just because of one card though. If you counter out of everything you're just wasting 2ks you will need later and they might not even drop it. Other than pudding its more of the same game plan, leave them at 4 life so you can gedatsu and yamato effectively and just keep their board under control while building yours. Because they can board swarm quite well, particularly with the new 07 jimbe it can get overwhelming if you can't control the board. So focus on that and make sure to save raigos in your hand for the big 10c 12k kaidos. If they can chain those and you don't have the answers that's also a surefire way to lose. I don't think there will be too much doffy/boa just cause it basically auto loses to black, but its popular enough to where you need to know how to play into it.

Conclusion

In conclusion, Enel is just very consistent and will treat you quite well, especially if you have put in the time to really pilot it as efficiently as possible. It can capitalize on your opponents mistakes very easily and if they don't know how to play against enel properly its even easier. I hope you found the information useful and please feel free to head over to my Twitter if you have any other questions and ill try my best to answer them. Shoutout once again to one piece top decks for letting me write another article and of course a shoutout to all the Canebrra boys, having such a fun and yet competitive setting to play one piece in every week has been essential to my overall improvement. Good luck to everyone planning on competing in the upcoming events and if you choose the goat enel may the triggers be in your favor.

[EN/OP7] Juan Mendez with Kuja Nami, Top-10 in Utrecht Regional

Introduction

Hello everyone, my name is Juan Méndez and this past weekend I finished 3rd place in swiss and finished 10th at the Utrecht OPTCG Offline Regional with Nami. 

First of all, I’d like to thank OPtopdecks for the invitation for doing this article.

My OPTCG Regional History:

2 T8 Moria and RG Law

4 T16 2RG Law, Uta and Nami

2 T 32 (1024 Players) Sakazuki and Moria

 
I have never played an offline TCG before, I only played Online Yugi-oh Duel Links for fun but when I knew that a One Piece Card Game would come out, I decided to give it a try with a friend since it is my favourite anime/manga and I fall in love with the game.
I started playing OPTCG 2 months before it was released in October of 2022. I started playing the game with my friend and then we decided to play in a local tournament. From there I started going to every local tournament I could to play and have fun. It turned out that I was good at the game and I started to win almost every local tournament in OP-01 with RG Law.
I have never left my country before but I managed to go to my first OP regional in OP-02 at Mulheim, Germany with the support of my friends. And surprisingly I achieved a score of 10-0 at the swiss on the first day and I lost top 16 because of overtime by cards in deck. 

Then at my second OP-02 regional in Barcelona I did 9-0 at swiss and I lost again top 16 against a close friend Antonino Borzi who got his first serial card and afterwards he achieved insane things at the game. 

I have been too many times too close to get the serial but I always failed to get it at the end.

But at the 08/06/2024 Online Regional after 1 year and a half playing the game I won my first serial card and my favourite card of the game which meant a lot to me.

For the Utrecht Regional I did not have too much time to test and I decided to give another chance to a leader which I am really comfortable playing, which is Nami. In the past I did 34th at Krefeld regional in Op-06. I was kinda frustrated I bubbled out top 32.
So I wanted to prove myself that I could top with Nami and… I did it!

Nami Deck Profile

Nami is the only deck who has an alternative win condition available, which is to deck out to win the game. In my opinion Nami is one of the hardest decks to pilot correctly currently in the game. 

In op-07 there are a few variants of Nami.

-Seven Warlord Nami

-Kuja Nami

-Impel Down Nami

-Mixed Nami (you mix archetypes)

Testing a few variants, the one I felt the most comfortable against more matchups is Kuja.

As your goal is to deck out you will be playing cards in your deck which will help you to deck out. Those cards have a drawing effect, trashing cards of the top of your deck or bouncing back your characters. There are some cards that are bad but thanks for its trigger effect you play them in the deck such as Impel Down All Stars.

There are you type of cards in this deck:

-Proactive cards, which you can play in your turn. Try to always play at least 1 card of these type every turn.

-Passive cards, which you play on the opponent’s turn. 

You always want to start second, because you draw an extra card. If you go first you might want to swing with leader to trash 1 card so it will be the same as if you have started second.

Click into the image for decklist in ONEPIECETOPDECKS

The best cards of the deck

Kaya is one of the most powerful cards in your deck. 

She helps you in your goal to deck out and cycling your hand.

Good against blue matchups for keeping your hand size low. Kaya with only 1-Cost, so you can always consider playing her. 

Sanji’s pilaf is the most broken card of your deck, it allows you to draw 2 cards by three don. +1 Hand Size is really good in Nami. The trigger is insane. Really good card. 

Playing this card is difficult because you need to find a spot where you won’t be taking more than 1 damage or zero damage. Playing two pilafs in the same turn is quite bad if afterwards you have to stop too many swings.

Gum Gum Giant Gavel is the most strong defensive card in your deck, for only 1 Don you get +4k on your leader and you trash 2 cards of the top of your deck which really helps you to reach your goal and defend yourself against big swings with a few Don. 

Impel down all stars, my favourite card of the deck. The card by itself does almost nothing but if you see this card in your life you should be really happy. +1 Hand size is really insane. It seems this card is useful only in your life but it has other utilities.

This card is the main target of Gum Gum Giant Gavel and Apis to use their effect. So you can keep other important cards in your hand.

Another utility is that you can use this card to make your hand size lower to be able to play Love Love Beam, Death Wink and to play around pudding. 

White snake helps you a lot to stop odd and 5k swings from the opponent, giving 1k to your leader all the turn and then you can combo with another card if its more than just a 5k swing. The most important thing about this card is that you ALWAYS draw 1 card. 

The trigger might be useless but it is really good if you haven’t played any searcher or if you need info about your top deck . 

Too many things that make this card really good.

New additions to the deck:

Apis helps you to counter 6k attacks and in some situations you use her to search Kaya-Pilaf-Gavel to finish the game or to just throw some useless cards such as impel down and perfume femur to find another card.  Important card against blue to keep your hand size low. 

Note: She can also draw herself. 

Gloriosa is a really good card which for only 1 don might draw a card and it will always order your bottom deck. Knowing the cards and the order that are left in your deck helps you a lot to deck out in late game. 

Marguerite helps you to stop big swings and makes it difficult for the opponent to attack. Being a 2k is good against 1 cost Nico Robin and being 3 cost difficult black decks to take it out. 


Snake dance is a searchable card by Gloriosa and really good for countering swings and bouncing back your Gloriosa or Kaya or Apis. The trigger is really good against BY/Luffy and Law RP for bouncing 5 cost to the opponent’s hand. 

Perfume Femur is a searchable card by Gloriosa, might be useful against blue decks to keep your hand low by using the main effect (it does nothing) or just for the trigger. Three reasons why you should play it on the deck. 

Decks Strengths, Weakness and Game Play

Decks Strengths

-You can win almost all matchups with 4 triggers of draw in your lifes if you play the deck correctly. 

-There are a few players that know how to play against Nami.

-You almost never play mirror matches. 

-You have tools to unbrick your hand. 

-Strong against almost all leaders without bottom deck access. 

-Your strategy is always the same.

-Almost nobody builds his deck to play against Nami.

Decks Weakness

-In some matchups you depend on your lifes to win.

-If the opponent knows how to play against you, it will be really difficult to win the game. 

-Depends on not trashing too many Kaya’s and Pilaf’s to the trash by other card effects. 

-Really weak against leader’s which have access to bottom decking your characters.

-Really weak against ramp leaders such as PLuffy. 

-High skill ceiling deck. 

– Early game, you want to take no damage at all, so try to have don available to stop every swing possible from the opponent, if you cannot defend yourself from 1 hit, then use the Don to do proactive actions. Do not take more than 1 life. 

-Mid game, you again want to take the least damage possible and try to play a few proactive cards. Only take damage if you need cards. Play around 3-4 lifes. 

-Late game, you want to know how many cards are left on your deck and start thinking about when you will be able to deck out. Kaya is really important to finish your game so try to keep track of how many Kaya have you seen through the game. 

Mulligan
Mulligan on Nami is really easy, I just mulligan if I see more than 2 draw triggers on my starting hand or if I see more than 2 Kaya or more than 2 Apis.

You also mulligan against rush decks if you see more than 1 Sanji’s Pilaf on your starting hand.

Matchups

Worst Matchups:

Luffy BY, this deck can play big bodies for a few don early on so it is really difficult to stop swings early game. You need 3-4 triggers of draw in order to win this matchup if Luffy opens strong. 

Tip: You want to stop as many swings early on as you can and you want as many Marguerite as you can. 

Law RP, this deck can rush you and bottom deck your characters. So it slows your goal and rushes you. You need 2-4 triggers to win depending on how many 5 Cost Kid he plays.

Tip: You want to see your white snakes and try to play your characters 2 by 2. 

P Luffy, this deck and like BY Luffy is able to play big bodies in a few turns, he always use his leader effect so he always has a lot of cards in hand, which means he usually will have the cards he needs. 

Tip: In this matchup you have to play around 4 Cost Law so always try to stay at 5 cards. 

You also want to see as many Marguerite as you can and you might need 3-4 triggers to win if Luffy sees the cards he needs.

Blue decks: They have access to 4Cost Pudding which makes you change your playstyle to play around 5 cards always in your hand. Also have access to bottom decking. Really bad matchup. 

Tip: Play around 4-6 cards and hope for the best. Be careful of triggering if the opponent has open Don to play Pudding.

Easy Matchups

Nami is really good against decks which cannot play too many characters early on to make early pressure, so slow decks are your best matchups.

Enel is a really slow deck. So he cannot do too much until he starts playing his boss drops so you can freely play your proactive cards. Onami is the most dangerous card in this matchup, always try to have some open Don to stop a banish attack if you do not have to waste too many resources on it. In this matchup never swing with the leader, if Enel gets to 2 lifes all his 10 Cost Ace will have rush. 

Bonney is a slow deck like Enel so you shouldn’t have too much trouble early on, you just have to find a few Marguerite to stop 9 cost Zoro and be aware of Hody Jones and you should be okay. 

Lucci is a slow deck, he wants to play as many 8 cost as he can, try to play around Issho when the opponent will have 8 Don or more next turn. Marguerite is really good if he has not played the stage. Careful of playing Kaya’s because of 4 Cost Luffy and 8 Cost Sabo. Try to play only 1 character per turn. 

Shotouts

I want to thank my mom and my grandma for supporting me in this journey and then I want to thank my Dragon Corp Games teammates David Melendo, Marc Martinez, Lluís Trincado and Edgar Zarco. 

Also I want to thank my friends Pol, Swarley, Supah, ErickM4, Ains, Josep, OscarV, Stylo, Tato, Zapata, Kike, Guillem, Andye, Cristian Z., Xevi, Oporto, Marc B , Ridao and more and the Barcelona community for the support.

I also want to thank my friends Antonino Borzi, Luca and Armando from Italy. I love you all <3

My French friends Florent and Ismail. 

Sorry If I missed someone :( 

[EN/OP7] The Waifu Blue Deck: Boa Hancock

Introduction

What’s up Blue Gang, this is Daniel Lee aka Hyubushu.

I live in Dallas Texas, home to a great community with many great players. I'm also a fanatic of all things Blue and will only play Blue color decks in any game, lol.

Currently, I am playing Boa Hancock- the Waifu Blue Deck of OP07. I've been waiting since set 1 for Boa to come out, and now that she's here, I have tried my hardest to get her the love she deserves.

The Leader effect makes it so that when you remove a character from your effects and you have 5 or less cards in hand, you draw a card. This effect costs zero don so it’s very cost efficient and allows you to have a healthy hand size throughout the match.

The deck is decent at flooding the board thanks to the New OP07 warlord card Jinbei, and slowing down the pace by either stopping attacks with the 6C Boa Hancock character or bouncing and bottom decking with removal event cards like Red Roc and Gravity Blade Raging Tiger. The deck can sometimes brick with non counter cards and most of the characters are very easy to remove from their low/mid cost and power.

Click into the image for decklist in ONEPIECETOPDECKS

Mulligan/Early:

What I'm looking for in my starting hand is getting a Sengoku or a Doffy Blocker, and depending on the match up, either a Pudding or Gravity blade. These 2 cards are the best addition to any Blue deck, making it a viable pick into the OP7 meta. Jinbei is probably the best card for your 4/5 don turn, as it gives you 2 characters on the field to take the tempo of the game.

The Sengoku on your 1/2 don turn gives you the option to find the missing combo piece like Jinbei or Jinbei targets like Crocodile, Gecko Moria, and the Doffy blocker. 3C Doffy Blocker is great on your 3 don or Jimbei combo, as it lets you rearrange your next draws or bottom those cards and keep searching for the cards you need. It's fine to counter early as we do get some draw power mid game due to our leader ability.

Mid Game:

Once you've rearranged your deck, you should be able to take control of the game until you hit your 9/10 don turn. Gravity Blade is a very powerful event card that bottom decks 2 characters of 6 cost or less, slowing down your opponent. If you’re in the lead, you can even flood the board more with the Jinbei combo, getting 5 characters on board no problem and swinging 5k all day. If your opponent is taking life and has a healthy amount of cards like Enel, Pudding kills their tactic since it makes them shuffle their entire hand into their deck and draw 5 new cards.

The new 6 cost Boa Hancock character is a great addition to blue decks as well. It makes a character on the opponent’s board unable to attack next turn and bottoms a 1 cost character to the deck. You can even bottom deck your own single costs such as Sengoku or Kaya to draw a card if there are no other targets. This synergizes well with our leader.

Late Game:

Once you hit your 9/10 don turn cards like 10 cost Kaido's come into play and depending on the situation, either versions can do wonders. OP5 Kaido draws you 4 cards as long as your opponent has 3 life or less, this keeps your hand size healthy and having a big 12k body on board is a good spot to be in. The OP4 Kaido is a field control card capable of removing an 8-cost and a 3-cost, thus triggering the Leader’s draw effect, but the downside is that the opponent still gets to keep the cards in their hand. However we can play Gum-Gum Red Roc to remove a threat and still have enough Don to play one of our 4-cost Characters like Jinbe to throw down more units, Gecko Moria to get cards from our trash, or Doffy to rearrange the deck again.

Match Ups:

Red Purple Law:
Best cards to see in this match are Gravity Blade and Jinbei. Gravity Blade hits everything Law puts out. Try to counter early and drop Jinbei to have board control as we are mostly trying to slow them down and take tempo, focusing on clearing their board until we get to our 9 or 10 don turn. It’s difficult for them to bottom deck an 8k Boa and/or a 12k Kaido.

Black Yellow Luffy:
This match is heavily in our favor and the cards you want to see here are Pudding and Gravity Blade. Usually you want them to take their own life while you build a board yourself but try not to swing too much, as it gives them a window to have key pieces in their trash. Once you see them at 10+ cards in hand, you can drop Pudding and make them go back to 5 cards. Afterwards, you can Gravity Blade targeting Sabo, Ace, and Luffy cards, putting them in an awkward situation of not having 5C brothers in trash to use the leader ability.

Black Rob Lucci:
Our worst match up; almost unwinnable in my opinion, as they have so much cost efficient removal and can flood the board better than you. My advice? Pray you don’t get paired into one. But if you do, I find the most promising method is aggro. Try to find your Jinbe's and throw down 5 units and swing like a Zoro player. It keeps them pressured and puts them in a pickle if they are low on life on their big 8/9 don turn.

Yellow Enel:
This match is 60/40 in our favor. Cards you want to see here are Pudding, Kaido's, and Red Roc. It’s pretty much the same strategy in the B/Y Luffy games. You want to get them to 2 Life and just start building a board for yourself as most Enel players will take early life hits and forget Pudding is a possibility. Once you Shuffle their hand back to normal size, you can start clearing their board until you get to your Kaidos and Boa's.

Leaving them at 2 life makes it where 9C Yamato doesn't get full value, and makes them decide to heal or rush with the new 10C Ace. Once you’re in the late game, the main objective here is to clear their board with big bodies and Red Roc for easy removals. Once they are starved out, it’s game over for them.

Green Bonny:
At first I thought this matchup was in their favor with the existing Green vs Blue history; however, with the addition of Pudding and Gravity Blade, I believe this is now in our favor. We can easily remove all of their 2-6 cost blockers and if they have a healthy hand from their searchers and life, Pudding can make them go from having 10, back down to only 5.
6C Boa slows down the tempo of the game by stopping one of their big monster cards, like Zoro, from attacking while also bottom decking their 1 cost searchers. And finally, we have Red Roc, that says bottom deck any of their 8-10 cost bodies.

Final Thoughts

That’s about it! Feel free to reach out if you have any questions. My handles are: https://x.com/Hyubushu1

Special shoutout to the DFW gang and people close to me like Paul Fortin aka the Green guy
Kyle Waple (all around best player I know)
Mayra Velazquez (Best female player of Dallas)

Jose Regino Bravo (tamales) Diego Dimas
Aaron Gonzalez
Juan Flores

[EN/OP7] A Short Article for Sabo Leader from GoblinRoy

GoblinRoy, Twitter Account @GoblinFL, won a local tournament on Tuesday with R/Y Sabo, went 4-0 beating the worst matchups. He shared his decklist, and a guide "how to play the decks curve and thoughts for OP07" in his Twitter/X account. And here we have it.

Deck Profile

Click into the image for decklist in ONEPIECETOPDECKS

Matchups result in local:

R1 – Birdcage Doffy  

R2 – Gecko Moria  

R3 – Uta

R4 – Gecko Moria 

At first when envisioning Sabo, I thought of him as a hyper aggressive deck that needs to end the game as quickly as possible. While that is true sometimes, the leader skill makes it where you can outgrind a majority of the leaders and play for the long game while still triggering bodies, rushing board and life and applying nonstop pressure similarly to a more aggro deck. This makes matchups like Enel a lot better than I initially thought because you don't have to worry about getting starved and can clear his board while healing with trigger bodies every turn.

Regarding turn order I believe that Sabo doesn’t have a preference besides stopping the curve of the opponents to prevent their big body or a set back in their curve. The only preference I would say sabo has is going 2nd to use 2c event on your opponents first swing to determine your life for the game, using that card as quickly as possible is important so that you don't play a gamble whether your life is a trigger body or a top life 0c event, you give up a bit more aggression in the early game but it's easier to play a character and still have the don to put it in life that same turn.

General Tips

– Your goal with this deck is to get your opponent to 3 life before getting attacked at MOST once, try not to get hit until your opponent is at 3 life because 19 of your cards trigger when your opponent is at 3 life.

– A majority of the time you want to put your characters in life even if they don’t get buffed or played by trigger. You get to counter wimpy 5k’s for your leader and still have an additional life with that card going back in hand without fear of it getting popped.

– Don't put Denjiro in life if he will get popped, instead play him and give him 2 don so he doesnt get ko’d by effects

– If you have 1 life and have Kawamatsu on board, hiyori in hand 0c event in hand. You can play hiyori , put 0c in life, swing 7 with kawamatsu, trash 2 cards from hand, put hiyori in life, leader skill put kawamatsu in life. Go from 1 > 3 life in one turn, guarantee a 2k, trigger body and an additional life trigger. If you're at 0 life start of turn, you have to use sabo effect first then do the combo.

Game Plan and Curve

If Going 1st:

T1: Nothing

T2: Swing lead, play Kawamatsu/Zoro swing (You would play kawamatsu if you know he can survive 1 turn, that's all you need him to do), leave 2 don up for 2c event if you have nothing else

T3: Force swing at your opponents leader to put them at 3 life ASAP, then if you can put your character in life no matter what. Pressure your opponent's life as much as you can. If no better play, leaving 2 don up for 2c event on your opponent's turn is a massive power play as well since it lets you reorder your life in the midgame.

T4 and after: This is when the game relies less on the curve and more on your life, board control/life pressure. Always try to keep 1-2 rushes in hand/life since you want to attack at least twice per turn.

If Going 2nd:

T1: Leave 2 don up for 2c event, always use it if your opponent attacks

T2: Play Kikunojo/Zoro/Inu/Neko

T3: Same combo as going first. Except you can play Kiku/Kawa/Zoro and put them in life in the same turn if you don’t have any characters or wanna buff what's on board.

T4 and after: Same deal as going first.

Final Thoughts

That's my RY Sabo guide, let me know if you have any questions.

I plan to go into OP07 with the current decklist, Lucci might be tough but still doable and Bonney is probably unwindable since Uta was already hard as it is because of 8c Kid. I'm gonna test with OP07 cards like Dragon.

Thank you for reading.

Note – I had a single reject in my deck for 3 rounds since I forgot to take it out, didn’t play it besides trigger r1. Found out after R3, told the TO, Got penalized for it, still won R4 without it

 

[EN/OP7] Rhys: Blue Yellow Queen reached 27th place OCE Treasure Cup

Hi all, my name is Rhys, I played queen in the 22nd June OCE treasure cup, and placed 27th

Deck Profile

Click into the image for decklist in ONEPIECETOPDECKS

Queen is a deck that revolves around playing defensive and starving your opponent while using proactive removal to be able to stabilise in the late game, allowing you to play back to back 8/9 drop characters for huge tempo swings and staying alive with leader effect.

I’ve played Queen on and off since set 4 and I made a lot of changes to the deck going into this treasure cup due to the meta decks usually not being good matchups for Queen, as well as i built the deck a lot more around going second to take second off RP law/BY luffy/Enel, with cards like Hiyori and Aramaki and Sanji blocker, as well as cutting Mihawk 9c, and any small blockers that will get bottomed by Law for free.

Mulligan/Early: You really wanna see at least one deck rearranger with either Doffy blocker and X drake, Gravity Blade is exceptionally important in a lot of matchups so I keep it if i have a rearranger + counter power to not brick, Hiyori + Onami/red roc is excellent in opening hand against a lot of the meta right now especially if you can get second off RP Law/Enel/BY Luffy.

Mid Game: If you've rearranged your deck ideally you're in a position where you have seen a gravity blade to be able to stabilise and playing these on curve is very powerful, playing blocker after blocker is also a great fall back plan. Do not swing mid, can take one life against 5 life leaders in this meta.

Late Game: Best result is Sanji 9c into Yamato, being able to develop two big bodies is very hard for any deck to deal with and almost guarantees one to stick around, which will allow you to utilise leader effect, should try and keep one 8c+ standing so it cannot be swung into, once opponent is low card count you can swing, but pivot to clearing board when the opportunity arises.

Matchups

BY Luffy – is by far the easiest matchup in the meta they play for late game and so do you, gravity blade removes all of their bodies easily except gecko, must be aware that you can get rushed down if they see all ace, aramaki on 8 don clean blocks ace

Uta – cannot be starved easy, hard matchup, outs are developing more big bodies if you can stabilise mid game, dont swing until very strong board position to be able to yamato KO effect the luffy or even the kid, need to save red roc for kid/zoro otherwise zoro will kill you instantly

Gecko Moria– is a lot easier post ban due to blockers not being removed early without GE, less ice age in the lists means our big bodies have a better chance of surviving, must find red rocs/katas for the geckos

Enel – starvable, try find pudding to slow them down, dont swing until strong board position to force them to trash life with kingdom come on your big bodies, stay alive and develop multiple big bodies and it should be a pretty good MU, beware of ace and enel rushdown, aramaki mvp for countering an aggressive start. Try to keep a good mental with this matchup, no matter what you see there is a 95% chance this match will go into overtime.

Rp Law – hard matchup, must see a really good curve, eg Doffy >, Gedatsu/X drake > Gravity Blade > Yamato if going second want to try to find Hiyori to put Red Roc/Onami in life, Aramaki MVP here on second as it clean blocks kid killer, Kid blocker is a high priority target here also as it allows them to swing bigger every turn burning your resources quicker.

Perona – develop your blockers to be able to spew out your big bodies safely, must be cautious of 10c doffy as it will lock you out from gaining life, must consider playing around it as soon as they hit 10 don, usually keep 1 big body standing at all times, gravity blade is excellent here for removing ryuma/brook/sabo/borsa also

General Tips

– Must remember the way you rearrange and what you put into your life, might seem like common sense but this will allow you to very effectively plan out your turns and consider if you want to counter or take life, allowing you to capitalise on your triggers

– Don’t forget about any gain life/draw effects when stacking your deck with the rearrangers, a miscalculation could mean you’re putting 9c’s into life and drawing bege…we've all done it…

– There is space in the deck for a lot of tech options, consider playing around with some of the matchup specific cards like pudding if you need answers for specific decks in your local meta.

– Plan turns and think about how your plans could change depending on opponents plays with what theyre capable of. Queen naturally goes close to overtime or into overtime, especially in an online environment. Planning out your turns ahead of time will allow you to make fast plays in the later stages of the game.

– As we are playing Gedatsu and Yamato currently it's important to not swing into leader early.

Queen is not particularly good in this meta but I wanted to have fun in a treasure cup for my first online event. Its biggest strength is its resilience and the fact it can catch people off guard. I had a lot of close games and had a lot of fun. I will continue to cook with this deck in the future and push this deck as hard as I can for some events. If you'd like to discuss the deck in further detail you can hit me up on X.

#PerthCrossGuild X=@RRhhyyssss

[EN/EB1] senzubeaned: HOW TO WIN with EB01 WHITEBEARD

Hello everyone, senzubeaned (name in X), published a Whitebeard article in his X/Twitter account recently. We had his permission to publish the article in the site. Senzubeaned placed 7th at Montreal Regionals in May 2024 with a WB deck, so here's his "all experiences" with the deck.

INTRODUCTION

Yeah, yeah, man does well at one tournament and thinks he’s Mister Professor Card Games, Ph.D, writing a guide for a format that ends in a few weeks, yeah, yeah lol.

Our good ol’ pal, Eddy Newgate, is designed to quickly apply intense pressure on the board, life, and hand-size of your opponent, while representing our own strong defense with 2Ks and Event counters. Using this pressure, we can make hard-and-fast inferences on the resources available to our opponent, and exploit any gaps in resources as efficiently as possible. This deck lives and dies off of our ability to exert pressure. This guide will cover my preferred strategies to pressure, along with deck-list optimizations, and optimal strategies based on matchup, in that order. Thanks again for the 800 followers, and I hope that this guide can be both helpful, and at least borderline coherent. If you asked me a simple question in DMs and received this link–sorry, I’m lazy, and enjoy!

PRESSURE STRATEGIES

Running the 2K Test

Our primary method of pressuring is tied to swinging 6000 power swings into 5000 power targets. This puts a specific demand on one particularly important and scarce resource in their hand: the 2K counter. They will have some amount in hand, and we will spend much of the early-to-mid-game trying to infer how many they have in hand.

It’s important to pay attention to your opponent’s behavior and emotional displays when you’re swinging 6Ks, there’re plenty of small (and sometimes huge) ‘tells’ that a player will exhibit. If they’re shaka-shaka’ing between two cards in hand in response to your attack–they’re likely choosing which of their two 2K counters they would rather spend. If they’re wincing, humming and haww’ing, it may be the case that they’re running low, and may even be debating on countering with two 1K counters (we take those straight to the bank lmao). If they’re countering very quickly, we can usually expect them to have more 2Ks going forward.

Keeping a tight track of what they search, and what they play on curve, can supplement the inferences we can make from conducting several 2K tests. We can sometimes egg our opponents on for more information by asking stupid questions, or suggesting dumb ideas, while they’re thinking hard about a play. “Ooh, easy, just 2K, 2K, 1K and you’re good!” often gets the reply, “Yeah, maybe if I had two 2Ks…” To the bank, baby!

When done right, you’ll enter the endgame only having to navigate the ambiguity of maybe not knowing what two cards in their 6+ card hand may be. From there, you can use deck knowledge (how many blockers, 2Ks, etc. do they run?) and their discard pile to compare which possibilities are more probable.

The Art of the Bluff

Pressure is a wild thing. It won’t just come from your gameplay–the strongest, most unbearable pressures are often internal. Even the best players play differently in Round 1 compared to Grand Finals, or in locals, compared to Regionals. Across skill-levels, players want prizing, players want glory, and above all, players hate losing right before the finish line. It can make a player all-in too soon, or decide against an all-in, both behaviors coming from a place of sheepishness and risk-aversion. While all of this affects us, too, we can still manipulate and capitalize on this, in others.

The Art of the Bluff, continued.

Players who have competed since OP02 understandably still have the residual trauma from playing against Prime Whitebeard. We still benefit from this, to this day. Players have experienced the endgame scenarios where four cards in hand, and four active don, truly actually means the Whitebeard has four Radical Beams in hand. Players have experienced the games where Whitebeard has the Rush Luffy, or the Ace, or the back-to-back 9 Cost Eddies, exactly when they need it. It feels bad, and so they’ll readily assume that the worst-case scenarios are possible–all you need to do is give them the information to believe that the worst-case scenario is possible and incoming.

Sometimes, we will actually have the cards we need–because the deck is built to be as variance-resistant as possible. Bluffing is useful in these instances, too. Using all the tells we’ve learned to identify when conducting 2K Tests, we can mislead our opponent into thinking we have insufficient counter power in hand, and bait them into going all-in.

In endgame, which is when bluffing is most relevant, you will often decide your turn based on your ability to survive their incoming attack pattern. Putting yourself in your opponent’s shoes to get a better sense of how they’ll attack–be it four 6k swings or two 8k swings, or a 15k swing–is important for mapping out what cards you can play, and how many don you leave active. Often, when trying to anticipate your opponent’s offensive strategy, you will identify some offensive strategies that you can defend, and some offensive strategies that you cannot defend. For example, you’re at 0 life, you have 5 cards in hand, one is non-counter, and the remaining are 1k counters. If they go wide, meaning they swing into your leader for 6k repeatedly, you’d be able to counter four 6k attacks. If they swing 10k, you’d die. In situations like this, leaving two active don may suggest to your opponent that you have events that could make swinging 10k, or even 15k, unsuccessful, and encourage them to reconsider. Defend what you can, and bluff that you can cover what you really can’t.

Pressure Strategies TL;DR:

  • Swing 6Ks and pay attention to how your opponent reacts before countering.
  • Bluffing is important in endgame, and you can recover lost games by encouraging opponents to all-in early, or decide against going all-in, by representing the defensive options that would counter their ideal offensive options.

DECKLIST

Above is a standard Whitebeard list that can take you very far, regardless of matchup. In this section, I’ll discuss my rationale with some of the decisions behind this decklist, and give a quick run-down on tech options for various matchup interactions. Ultimately, the best decklist is the one that suits your preferred style of play, so please don’t be too upset with me if I bag on Bad Manners Kick Course too hard.

Core Cards

As with all lists, the core cards of Monkey D. Luffy from ST01, Edward Newgate and Portgas D. Ace from OP02 are just inarguable inclusions. The threat of Luffy alone will always force your opponent to play suboptimally, in endgame. Same goes for Ace, which can swing the board state in a single turn. I generally run 3x ratios for cards I would like to regularly see one of, but no more than two.

Radical Beam, 1 Cost Searchers (ideally at a ratio of 6-8), Makino and the two Marcos are both staples, as well. 4 Cost Marco, the Blocker, can have relatively limited use lately, but it can force your opponent to attack inefficiently if they’re required to bypass it, usually. Usually. Running it at 3x is definitely justifiable, but it’s a counter and a searchable blocker that can be annoying to remove. At least as long as Rebecca is around, I can safely say Nico Robin is a staple, as well. 3x or more.

Tech Cards

Whitebeard’s core cards (Luffy, Ace, Eddy) will generally drive the core gameplan of your mid-to-late game, but slight tweaks to the decklist can improve your winrate into certain matchups, usually at the cost of having limited use cases in other matchups. There’re quite a few cards that fall into this category for Whitebeard, so I’ll try my best to touch on everything.

Thatch (OP02) 4 / 5 – I think Thatch is a good meta call, given the prevalence of RP Law. While it can feel a little outdated to run vanillas in current meta, it’s a reliable board threat with 1K counter, that requires RP Law to spend two of their expensive reduction cards (Gordon, Raise Max, Fire Fist) to bottom-deck with their leader effect, which can be devastating if we can follow it up with Ace / Whitebeard the following turn. Gonna just go ahead and say–it’s more versatile than Little Oars Jr (EB01), and slightly more meta-appropriate than Rush Sanji (ST10).

Bad Manners Kick Course 1 / 5 – The only reason we run this bastard-ass card is because our amazing core cards are all non-counter. It’s brick insurance. We don’t want to need insurance. It requires you to trash an additional card for 3k, so in a way, it is effectively the same as using a 1k and 2k, with the added bonus of communicating a startling amount of information to your opponent about what you have in hand, especially in late game, especially against strong opponents. If you feel like you need to run more than 2x, you’re subsidizing deck-building decisions that are too risky for a deck this fragile, in my honest opinion. This’ll come up later.

Atmos / Speed Jil 2 / 5 – It’s solid for when you’re going second, on curve, or alongside a 5 cost character at 9-10 don (depending on the board state), and the worst-case is that its a Whitebeard Pirate searchable, Marco-effect eligible 1k counter in hand. Sure, maybe vanillas get a bad rap, but there are inclusions to the deck that provide more reliable value. As with Thatch, it can sometimes feel a little too slow to play if you aren’t seeing it by mid-game, but at the very least, it will still have counter value in the go-wide matchups.

Otama (OP01) 4 / 5 – This card is still really strong, and in a different meta, where there are more board threats at 5k power to be popped with 5 Cost Marco, or 3k power for Nico Robin. As it currently stands, Kuzan and Kid & Killer are the only decent targets. That being said, there’re a lot of combos that can be opened up with Ace + Otama + Nico Robin, or Whitebeard’s When Attacking effect, it will expend a decent amount of counter from your hand, so be mindful not to overcommit. All in all, I think I still currently prefer the searchable Straw Hat 2Ks instead, but if you choose Buggy + Izou searcher package, Otama is definitely justifiable. I can also see 2x Otama added on top of 4x Sanji / Makino / Jozu, for a more robust 2K ratio variant list.

Shuraiya 2 / 5 – This card is amazing into Black / Yellow Luffy, which is one of our toughest matchups. However, it has extremely limited usage against Sakazuki, Moria and RP Law–which already prefer to attack by swinging several 6k swings to leader, rather than going tall. I’m too apprehensive to increase the ratio of unsearchable cards in a list that now usually runs two different-type searchers, just for one or two relatively uncommon matchups. If Uta and B/Y Luffy become really popular in EB01.5, I might change my mind on Shovel Boy.

Kid & Killer / Buggy (OP03)3 / 5 – Look, I told you this’d come up again–if you just love Bad Manners Kick Course, feel free to put more non-counters in your deck. Just don’t blame me when you draw the bricks, but not the brick insurance, okay? That’s on you. Not me. You.

Kid & Killer ups the non-counter ratio and the unsearchable ratio, but increases the rush ratio of the deck. It can be a valuable surprise against opponents who are tunnel-visioning on Luffy and Ace when sequencing their defense. I can get behind the idea of running it at a 2x, at most.

 

My understanding is that Buggy and Nami compete for the same slot. Buggy is slightly more resilient with it’s Slash immunity, and slightly more annoying with it’s 3k power compared to Nami’s 2k–but it comes at the cost of upping the non-counter ratio, cannot search for Rush Luffy nor 2Ks, and searches for events that are all Straw Hat type, anyway. I like the idea of it, but it feels too hopeful, surely Makino won’t bail us out of that many endgames.

 

Izou (EB01) 3 / 5 – Initially, I was pretty close-minded towards this card as an option, but was pleasantly surprised by its reliable utility. There’s also some nonsense we can get into with combo’ing Izou ability with Gum Gum Red Hawk to surprise-KO any 6k characters. That being said, it’s a non-counter, easier for Moria, Sakazuki and RP Law to remove (due to it being 5c, 7000), and cannot be searched by Izou (OP03). Is it worth running Whitebeard Pirates event searcher? Debatable, but it seems as though running Izou (EB01) requires more sweeping changes to the decklist to maximize its value.

Tech Cards TL;DR:

Stay away from the non-counter trap, brothers! You’ll just lose more to the go-wide decks!


THE IDEAL CURVE

So, before we get into matchup advice, it’s important to recognize the core gameplan of our deck. Matchup advice can often be reactive, but knowing how to play proactively is helpful for navigating unfamiliar situations, leaders or deck variants. Our deck is relatively linear and predictable, but as I mentioned earlier, we can use that to our advantage. Understanding our ideal curve, going first or going second, will help when making slight adjustments later for specific matchups.

Going First

In most matchups, we’ll prefer to go first. Most of our cards are strongest when played as soon as possible, and most of our cards are odd-numbered in cost. Attacking first is just a cozy bonus.

Turn 1: Play a 1c searcher.

Turn 2: Attach 3 don to your searcher, swing 5k, then 6k with leader.

Turn 3: Play Rush Luffy, swing 6k twice.

Turn 4: Play Ace, swing 6k with leader, again if Luffy survived last turn, and Ace for 7k, clearing board threats if needed.

Turn 5: Play Big Eddy, swing swing swing.

Turn 6: Play another Luffy, Ace or Whitebeard, depending on board state, or all-in with Nico Robin to bypass blockers, or Makino to surprise-buff a searcher if one has survived to late-game. By now, the end-game should be simple.

Going Second

There are situations where going second is ideal, usually in scenarios where we are especially concerned about an endgame threat being played on curve, or where hand / don resources are crucial to minimize for our opponent. There are also situations where we’ll lose our dice rolls–so thankfully, our deck is bad-luck-resistant and we’re relatively well-suited to go second. One more card in hand!

Turn 1: Play as many searchers as you can. If they search for different types, play what finds you the more matchup-crucial card, first. If you have it in hand already, then go based off of what’s least likely to whiff, given what cards you have in hand.

Turn 2: Attach 4 don to your searcher, swing 6k, then 6k with leader.

Turn 3: Play a Luffy, and decide based on the matchup, cards in hand and previous 2K Tests, as to whether you leave a don up to protect the Luffy (with a Guard Point, or with the power of bluffing), or swing 6k and 7k. Alternatively, play Thatch on curve!

Turn 4: Play an Ace, and decide based on availability of events in hand as to whether you’ll keep a don active, or swing 7k and 7k with leader and Ace.

Turn 5: Play Big Eddy, and for sure, always, leave one don up.

Turn 6: Play a second Big Eddy, Ace to combo with Eddy’s When Attacking effect, or a Rush Luffy to bypass blockers.

Ideal Curve TL;DR:

Play a searcher, then Luffy, then Ace, then Eddy! Swing, swing, swing! Easy game, easy life!

MATCH-UPS

Overall Matchup Spread

One of the reasons I’ve felt comfortable competing with Whitebeard is because of its very even matchup spread. We beat a few decks very hard, but no matchup is especially polarizing to the point where it’s unwinnable. No auto-losses, what a privilege!

A factor that can’t properly be quantified by a tier-list graphic is how the variation in your opponents’ skill affects the expected difficulty of a matchup. The biggest example–in my experience–is Sakazuki. A top Sakazuki might not even be in the toss-up tier, I may even consider that matchup unfavored (or ‘Tough’) for Whitebeard. Thankfully, most Sakazukis you face will not meet that threshold of skill, respectfully, so our end result win-rate may be higher than what may be implied by optimal theorycrafting.

The matchup spread image is ordered, as well. For example, the mirror, naturally, is a true 50/50 matchup, and I generally understand Sakazuki to be slightly tougher than 50/50, depending on the player we’re up against. Though, when their high-roll beats our high-roll, it’s difficult to say we’re hard-favored, even if performance statistics suggest that we’re relatively comfortable in that matchup. Oh well, it’s on its way out, soon.

With that being said, let’s get into specific matchups, mulligan heuristics, and the adjustments we can make to maximize our win-rate!

Katakuri

Turn Preference: Go first, we’re more concerned about 7c Big Mom than 10c Big Mom.

Mulligan: Luffy, Ace.

We’re gonna start light with our by-far easiest matchup, with little to no significant departure from our usual gameplan. Main difference–we will take almost every single swing to life, and go straight to zero. Unlike with Black, Blue or Purple–yellow has no means to disrupt their opponent’s hand if it gets unreasonably big, so we can take it easy. This also means that while they can potentially get value out of a 7c Big Mom on the earliest turn they play it, they assuredly will not get value out of 10c Big Mom. The tricky part is to be cautious about how much don you commit to defending your characters–it is possible to lose because of an overcommitment to keep a Rush Luffy alive, or something, so keep calculating whether you can defend an all-in, during each late game turn.

We conduct the 2k test as often as possible, we play around Onami trigger by swinging with characters first, Blocker triggers by keeping Luffy or 9c Eddy active to possibly bypass, and Bege / Amaru triggers by being a good person and doing good deeds. Surely bad things only happen to bad people, right?

Post-Ban Prediction: It’s always been a toss-up as to whether Katakuri will re-emerge post-ban, and whether Katakuri will do well–but one thing’s for sure, people love playing Katakuri anyway. I anticipate we’ll see plenty, and that’s okay.

Enel

Turn Preference: Go first.

Mulligan: Luffy, Ace, Thatch

The hurdle for beating an Enel deck is to make three successful attacks to life when they’re at one life. Given their removal options, healing, and triggers–this can be relatively tough. Thankfully, due in part to the overall low counter ratio in Enel, winning is still very possible. They will assuredly take the first few hits to life, if not all of them, until they’re at 1HP. By then, we pump the brakes until our board is big and tall enough to get through. This is where Thatch shines—they can use Kingdom Come to remove it, but it’s essentially a don-neutral, tempo-negative interaction for them (6c removal for a 6c body), and we know they would much rather use it on a 9c Eddy, or Ace. KO-resistant targets like 5c Marco, or dare I say, Little Oars Jr. (EB01) are also especially useful here. It’s a simple matchup, just hang in there and don’t swing at their 1HP unless you intend on swinging at the next one. Otherwise, we’d be giving them a free opportunity to trigger and filter their hand of non-counters each turn.

Post-Ban Prediction: We will assuredly be seeing more Enel around in OP07, due in part to the new 10c Ace secret rare they get. As for EB01.5, I anticipate we’ll be seeing a solid increase in representation, so don’t neglect your matchup preparation!

Red / Purple Law

Turn Preference: Go second, we get Thatch on curve, and one less card + don for Law to ramp with.

Mulligan: Nico Robin, 5c Marco, Luffy, Ace.

I actually really enjoy this matchup–and it’s not just because it’s common and relatively easy. There’s a lot to keep an eye out for, and a lot of lines that can result in us losing. We have answers for most of their big threats—Nico Robin or 5c Marco for Bon Clay, or Nico + Ace for Shuraiya, the 9c Eddy into Ace combo for clearing their 5c Kid blockers, and a 6k leader for all the 5k swings they wanna make! Otherwise, there aren’t major departures from our usual gameplan as described by the Ideal Curve section, earlier. The 2K testing is especially effective here, given the relatively high ratio of non-counters and the relatively low ratio of 2K counters—we will usually be given clear information on how capable they are of countering, especially if they’ve been forced to play an Otama alongside a Gordon or Fire Fist, to reduce a Thatch to a removable threshold.

We’ll have the hand-size to be able to tank one Law blocker (ST10)’s On Play effect, and still be okay. Thankfully, they aren’t running the Law blocker at the ratios where we need to worry about two being played, but I can see the ratio can increase from the 2x norm, if it suits the larger metagame. All that to say—I don’t think we need to play around Law blocker, I don’t even know if we can, so just tank it!

Beyond the ‘threat-answer’ back-and-forth of early-to-midgame, much of the matchup boils down to how well we can deal with an opponent going wide. Non-counters will make or break this matchup, and often our 2K counters will have the same value as 1K counters, because they’re usually only swinging with 6k power, with Kid & Killer and Mr. 2 as the usual exceptions. Their most problematic lines begin with playing Kid blocker on curve, I know a top Whitebeard player who includes Gum-Gum Jet Pistol specifically as a means to shut Kid down fast, so take that as a sign to take Kid out of the picture as soon as you comfortably can, even if we decide against Jet Pistol. 

Post-Ban Prediction: Uncontroversial prediction–RP Law will be the most-played deck of this mini-format. It’s hard to see this as a bad thing for us, given our advantage in the matchup.

Mirror

Turn Preference: Go first.

Mulligan: Ace, Whitebeard.

This one is relatively simple. If we have Eddy, and they don’t, and we play ours–we likely win. If they have Eddy, and we don’t, we need to focus on draining their hand. If we both have Eddy, it’s a matter of who has more back-to-back Eddies, or more counter to support theirs. It is generally understood that for Whitebeard, 1k counters and 2k counters are functionally the same. Rarely will you see someone swinging 7k into 6k, outside of instances where the base power of the attacker is 7k–like Ace. As such, we won’t be doing 2k tests. We’ll instead just pepper them with 6k attacks, and when they begin to stop using 1k counters and start using 2k counters, we can inference that they’re (1) running low on counter cards, (2) have a 1k card that they would rather play–which isn’t super common in this matchup–and / or (3) they are likely holding onto a 9c Eddy to use on curve. Making the inference on if they have a 9c or not, quickly, is key.

Defensively, we’ll be doing the same—we only really protect our life if we drew a 9c Eddy in the first three turns, with enough counter in hand to foreseeably protect us, or if it’s clearly our only out in the matchup. Sometimes, our only out will be to bluff. Lastly, and most importantly, you’re aware of how effective Ace is at clearing a board. Do not play into their Ace.

Post-Ban Prediction: Since OP05, I’ve gone into every format thinking ‘this one is finally the end for us, no more Whitebeard’ and every format has proven me wrong. I may still feel this way about OP07–it’ll depend on how we do against the new Rob Lucci leader–but EB01.5 seems like a prime opportunity for us to squeeze a few more dubs in. A spike in usage for Enel, Uta and B/Y Luffy might be enough for Whitebeard to have a tough bracket.

Gecko Moria

Turn Preference: Go first.

Mulligan: Luffy, Whitebeard, Nico Robin

To some extent, we just gotta hope they don’t see too many Peronas, early. Beyond that, their usual removal options and defensive options are all scarier in Sakazuki decks, with all due respect. They mostly field 5k bodies, which is convenient as it necessitates they decide between playing on-curve, or attacking with their bodies. We can draw inferences from when they decide to curve, and when they prefer to attack instead. For example, if they’re at 8 don, and don’t play Moria, it may suggest that they’re hurrying to finish the game after recognizing they’re short on defensive options, that they don’t have an 8c Gecko Moria in hand, or they have Sabos that they would rather play back-to-back.

As with all black decks, it’s helpful to keep regularly checking the resources in your opponent’s discard pile. While conducting our 2K tests—which are effective in this matchup when they’re already trying to play every Perona they comfortably can—we should keep an eye out for when the first Perona enters their discard pile, and when a second Perona enters their discard pile. The importance of tracking the entry of the first Perona is relevant for anticipating how they’ll distribute their don the following turn (or current turn, if discarded via leader effect). The importance of tracking the second Perona is for whether it’s okay to KO a rested Perona when it is reduced to 2K power from Ace effect, and we have a searcher or Nico Robin free to attack it. After all, it makes no difference for their Moria ability to bring out a Perona whether they have one or more than one in the discard pile. Long story short—they’ll trash from our hand, and go wide to continue straining our hand, hoping to outlast us with blockers and tall endgame swings from their 8c Gecko Moria.

Post-Ban Prediction: OP07 Rob Lucci waiting room, but we’ll still see lots and it’s still a threat.

Sakazuki

Turn Preference: Go first, though I’ve heard strong arguments to go second now that 7c Borsalino is unlikely to be seen on curve when it’s included at 1-2x at most.

Mulligan: Luffy, Ace, Whitebeard, Nico Robin (hey wait, that’s just the ideal curve + nico!)

It’s, by far, the best deck in format. It’s getting banned because of it—and only the coolest leaders get banned, we all know that. Part of a strong mentality is tied to expectation. One of my professors once told me—all frustration lies in the violation of an expectation. For example, imagine someone stuck in traffic—they aren’t pissed off that traffic exists as a concept, they’re pissed off that they had expected to be at their destination sooner. So, it’s important to set good and accurate expectations. My expectations are: Sakazuki is the best deck in format. We have a decent (read: middling, relatively speaking) matchup into the best deck in format—because they either need to high-roll on seeing all the resources they need, and / or play perfectly in order to beat us. Most Sakazuki players are unfortunately not able to play the deck perfectly so, experientially, we will beat most Sakazuki players, even though we “shouldn’t”. That being said, we also need to play perfectly to ensure we eek out wins against some of the top players, too. 

When playing against Sakazuki, we can keep an eye on the 2Ks they’re countering with to make soft-inferences on how many they may have in hand. Specifically, Sakazuki players will almost always counter with a T-Bone or Vergo or Gion (if anyone still worries about Nami that much) before they use Tsuru—so when they use Tsuru, know that this means we’re getting close. This is like when we counter with Makinos when we have a 1c on board—we definitely wouldn’t be doing this if we didn’t have to. Keep an eye on their discard piles to anticipate when they’ll try using the Rebecca – Hina – Lucci combo. Try to keep a Nico Robin in hand to play around Rebecca—but expect them to play it alongside a Sabo to keep it KO-immune and make our lives harder. No violated expectations!

Post-Ban Prediction: Sakazuki players will transition from being outspokenly anti-ban, to outspokenly pro-RP Law ban. How am I able to see the future so clearly? Brother, I read twitter.

Black / Yellow Luffy

Turn Preference: Go second, we need to limit their access to combo resources at all costs.

Mulligan: Luffy, Ace, Thatch

Man, this matchup is demanding. Sure, they’ll need to see all their combo components to work their magic, and we can sometimes get an early read on what they’re missing, but the combos will happen. This means we need to play perfectly, and get a teensy bit lucky with the resources we draw into, to reliably win in the matchup. This matchup requires the largest departure from our usual gameplan, out of all our common matchups. Generally speaking, if we swing at them in early and mid-game, they will not counter, they want to go to 0 life as soon as possible, using the least amount of their own cards to do it. We want to make that process annoying for them.

We won’t be attaching don to whatever searcher we hope to play on turn one, to attack turn two. We will instead only attack with leader until they’re at two life, while we build up board threats. At two life, they would need to activate two of their own cards’ effects to activate their leader combo, which is usually too inefficient for them to go ahead with.

 

Just for reference, they will usually use the following cards to self-damage: (For Fusion World players, firstly: I’m so sorry about your meta, secondly: I’ve been resisting the urge to call these self-awakeners.)

  • Charlotte Flampe (EB01) 
  • 5c Sabo (ST13)
  • Kozuki Hiyori (OP06) 
  • 5c Monkey D. Luffy (ST13)

You’ll notice that from these cards–every option to self-damage will require the use of either a 5 cost character, or a 2K counter. So, it’ll almost always require a commitment of don or defensive resources in hand. Hiyori doesn’t technically self-damage on its own, but it’s only ever going to be played alongside one of the baby characters, so we can treat it like a self-damager. So, it’s important to starve them. Now what?

As mentioned before, we spend our early and mid-game building up our board with active characters–big and tall characters like Thatch and Eddy are great to ensure we can comfortably swing above their 9K life leader. If they end their turn at one HP, and/or we otherwise cannot prolong the game to improve the board state, we can all-in. In this matchup, an all-in will usually require you to bypass a Sabo blocker, which is possible (depending on whether it was played last turn) with your Rush Luffy, or Ace the turn after you played 9c Eddy (using its KO effect).

Keep an eye out for the turns where they can Gecko Moria into an already full board. Also, don’t hesitate to use your Ace to pop their 5c Luffy if they give you the opportunity. If you have multiple copies of Rush Luffy in hand, or if you’re confident they don’t have 5c Sabo available, it can be helpful in endgame to play a Luffy, keep it active, and swing into a 9k leader with blockers up, with a 16k unblockable swing on a later turn. Play it by ear, a sharp inference will cut through any matchup disadvantages.

Post-Ban Prediction: We’re gonna be seeing a lot more of this guy, but based on Asia’s results in OP07, we were bound to, anyway.

Uta

Turn Preference: Go first! We want them to play their 8c Kid with no Don up, or delay it to their 10 don turn. We also want to avoid letting them play 7c Luffy on curve.

Mulligan: Ace is CRUCIAL. Nico Robin, Luffy and 5c Marco are also really helpful to see.

It was recently brought to my attention that Uta beats our ass. To a certain extent, it’s true! To a lesser extent, there’s a lot we can do to make sure this matchup is still winnable for us. Not only do they generally draw a card each turn, while swinging 6k, they have plenty of small blockers, bodies that play bodies, Backlight to KO our Luffy and Marcos, 8c Kids—and if they want to surprise us, a 10c Doffy (OP04) or Hody Jones to rest our active don—and finishing off endgame with two 12k leader swings from I’m Invincible.

We just need to approach the matchup honestly—conduct our 2K tests dilligently, be present and ready for any opportunities to arise. It won’t always be clear how bricked their hand is when they draw twice a turn, take most hits to life, and have a bajillion searchable 2Ks with ‘yeah of course I’ll search here, why not?’ lookin’ ass New Genesis card. Ace is the hardest counter to 8c Kid in the game besides like Red Roc… and Gordon… and 8c Katakuri… and Kingdom Come… and Ice Age… okay, nevermind, it’s just a really good counter. Regardless, mulligan hard for it, pop the lil’ blockers when they try to set up sooner than they should. Be mentally present for any chances to win, and be emotionally ready to eat shit and lose. Mentality, baby!

Post-Ban Prediction: We will be seeing more Uta. If this turns out to be true, I anticipate returning to Izou (EB01) for more testing, as the -2000 effect lasts for the entire turn, and can reduce an I’m Invincible all-in to two 10k swings, rather than two 12k swings.

Conclusion

Playing Whitebeard is a lot like tending to a Farm (yeah, we’re doing another self-indulgent metaphor, strap in). Envision a man digging a trench between his unwatered fields, and a nearby river. He can dig a trench 50 feet long, but if his field is 51 feet away, the irrigation still won’t happen. Every single one of those 50 feet are meaningful, and crucial, to irrigating the farm—but the result will not be felt until the 51st foot is dug. We can keep swinging 6k, and they can keep countering out, but the results of our hard work sometimes do not reveal themselves until the end. I’ve won into my first in-person Top 64 by swinging a 6k and 7k into a player with six cards in hand, and one life remaining. Was I nervous as shit? Definitely—but I knew that the final foot needs to be dug somehow, if I want these damn crops watered.

Keep digging, everyone.

[JP/OP08] Ricco revived Purple Luffy, won its first Flagship in OP08 format.

Introduction

Hi, it's me Ricco from Team Tapu Brothers Indonesia. Tournament report and short article about Puffy.

Click into the Image for the decklist in One Piece Top Decks

Key Card Puffy Deck:

1. Magellan – we want this card for every match up. Very good card if we paired to meet Lucci deck. Return 1 don, can destroy opponent's tempo.

2. Paulie – value card for ramp and KO opponent's character.

3. Kid 7 – MVP on my decklist. Always need kid 7 on every game. Make our leader bigger 1k power.

4. Law Bloker – discard 2 opponent's cards randomly is very annoying. We can throw their boss to trash, bury their plan.

Meta OP 08:

Not a big update if you compare with OP07. In my opinion.

Tier 0: 1. RP Law

Tier 1:

1. Rob Lucci OP07
2. BY Luffy

Tier 2:

1. Bonney
2. Kalgara
3. Boa
4. Carrot
5. Moria
6. Puffy
7. Etc.

How Puffy works:

– Pick 2nd = we want Magelan or Kid blocker asap.
– Always take life on 2nd turn, 3rd turn.
Except we play 2nd, and Paulie on time, we no need to take life (next turn already max don capacity)
– We need 2k counters to survive :)
– Play combo Ulti + Page one, only for match up Vs Enel and Lucci.
– Kid 7 give + 1k power to our leader. So 7k atk isn't hard to guard. We need only 2k counter.
– Play two character better than 9c Kaido  on time. But you must check the situation if you clear board with Kaido, maybe Kaido on time will be a perfect decision. Because if you play Kaido, you cannot spam board next turn (our Don become 4 or 5, next will be 6 or 7)
– Double Magellan on a turn will destroy our opponent's plans.
Eg:
T1 = Don 2
T2 = Don 4 + ramp 1 + play something
T3 = Don 7 play Paulie + ramp 1
T4 = Don 10 , Magellan + Magellan.

Curve/Play turn by turn.
Going 1st:
Turn 1=
don 1, go

Turn 2=
don 3
swing leader 5k
ramp 1 by leader
Play vanilla 6k

Turn 3=
Don 6
Ramp 1 by leader, don total 7
Play kid 7, minus 1 don

Turn 4=
Don 8
U can paulie, ramp 1, don 9.
Kid atk don minus 1, total don 8 (its okay next will be 10)
If urgent (eg: u must clear opponent's kid blocker) ramp1 by leader, and play kaido to clear board instead play paulie.

Turn 5=
Don 10
U can play many combination 5cost card.
Kid/magellan/queen/double magellan/double queen.

Going 2nd:
Turn 1=
don 2, go

Turn 2=
don 4
swing leader 5k
ramp 1 by leader
Play magellan/kid blocker

Turn 3=
Don 6/7
Ramp 1 by leader, total don 7/8
Play kid 7/paulie

Turn 4=
Don 8
U can paulie, ramp 1, don 9.
Kid atk don minus 1, total don 8 (its okay next will be 10)
If urgent (eg: u must clear opponent's kid blocker) ramp1 by leader, and play kaido to clear board instead play paulie.

Turn 5=
Don 10
U can play many combination 5cost card.
Kid/magellan/queen/double magellan/double queen.

Matchups and how to play

RP Law:
1. Mulligan until u got paulie.
2. No paulie hard to stabilize Law's board.
3. Kid 7 will save the day, so many 5k atker, so they must attach don to their atker.

Lucci:
1. Keep magellan, u need early magellan.
2. Ulti + Page One its okay on this match up.
3. U must win as soon as possible, late game on this match up will be nightmare.

BY Luffy:
1. Magellan & Law are key cards to win this match
2. No atk if no law on our hand
3. Always pick 2nd
4. Hold your opponent life on 2 or 3.
5+. U can attack if u already have 2 big bodies. (Eg kid7 or kaido).
6. Very tricky match, always open attack with 5k,if they take damage (let say, their life become 2), swing again with 5k or 6k no attach don. (Your last blow must be on zero life and big. So they must throw many cards to guard.
7. If they start combo 9k leader, just use 2 or 3 lines to punch depends on how many sabo blocker on their field. Thats why i said before,we need 2 big bodies character. (I can explain this clearly on this article, but u can PM or chat directly 😁)

Kalgara
1. Guard all cheap atk 6k or 7k.
2. Kaido is ultimate answer to clear board.
3. Number of blocker is important (u cannot guard all their giant attaker)

[EN/EB01] Eric Quintana: Top-16 CartaMagica Treasure Cup with YB Luffy(ST13)

Introduction

Hello, my name is Eric Quintana and i recently topped the Carta Magica Treasure Cup piloting B/Y Luffy. I Started Playing OP01 and have been fortunate enough to top multiple events and earn six serial cards throughout my carrier. In the Article, I will try to persuade you to start playing B/Y Luffy, if not to at least add it to your list of possible decks to play in Eb-01.

Carta Treasure Cup

R1 Sakazuki Match: Win     Dice roll: Won

R2 Sakazuki Match: Win     Dice roll: Loss

R3 Katakuri Match: Win     Dice roll: Loss

R4 Enel Match: Win     Dice roll: Loss

R5 RP Law Match: Loss     Dice roll: Loss

R6 Enel Match: Win     Dice roll: Won

R7 Katakuri Match: Win     Dice roll: Loss

R8 Gecko Moria Match: Win     Dice roll: Loss

R9 Gecko Moria Match: Win     Dice roll: Loss

Click into the Image for the decklist in One Piece Top Decks

EB-01 Strategy

B/Y Luffy is a deck that has one of the best late games out of any deck this meta. Becoming a 9k leader and cheating out big characters is a recipe for success. However, thanks to that great late game our deck is built to not have much of an early game and if we fail to see our combo pieces the game can end without us doing much. Thankfully, we have 8 searchers, 4 flambé,  and both 5 cost Sabo and Luffy to let us draw cards. These cards give us the consistency we need to get to our late game combo of moria plus leader effect.

How a usual game will go (this applies to going first or second):

T1 – Play Garp or Event to search your Top 5 Cards. My priority order (Blocker Sabo, Big Luffy,  Baby Sabo, Big Ace, Baby ace, Baby luffy) The list changes depending on what we have in hand but this is the general view i have.

T2– Play any searchers you have and place the rest of the don on your leader and attack your opponent. (This is our weakest turn during the game)

T3– If we have 3 or more life I will swing with my leader then play yellow luffy and activate its effect trashing a life and drawing a card. If we are at 2 or less life i will play blocker sabo and wall to get to later stages of the game.

T4– This turn is usually play Blocker sabo and swing with lead.

T5– This is our combo turn. we are usually at 1-2 life depending on if our opponent attacked us. This turn we use Flambé to get to 0 life place 2 don on our leader activate his effect then play babies corresponding to the big characters we placed in our life. this makes us a 9k leader and sets us up to play moria next turn.

T6+ – we do our standard Moria plus leader ability to place massive pressure on our opponents and eventually win the game.

Key concepts for playing the deck:

Keep Flampé and Makino in hand to be used as combo pieces in later turns.

You want to lose your first life by either your opponent attacking you or by Big Luffy effect.

Sabo is key in slowing your opponents down to let you reach late game

When attacking you want to attack face because small bodies have a hard time attacking us when we are a 9k leader

Lets address the elephant in the room, Sakazuki. This Deck in my opinion is Luffy's hardest Matchup. This is due to Sakazuki's ability to efficiently bottom deck our cards while playing big characters. However, we do have a strategy that can let us win against this powerhouse of a deck and that is to become a 9k leader while having 1 or more blockers plus 1 life. It may seem like a hard board state to reach but with hiyori and ivankov you can reach that board state fairly easily.

Cards needed 

1 Hiyori/Ivankov, 3 Big Characters (Sabo,Luffy,Ace) with 1 being in hand and 2 babies (Sabo, Luffy,Ace). The combo should be done at 1 life and should be done at you 8 or 9 DON turn.

1st- Play Hiyori/Ivankov and use their effect replacing your life with any big character (Sabo, Luffy, Ace).

2nd- Play the corresponding baby from your hand and activate it's effect playing the bigger version from your life.

3rd- Attach 2 Don to your Luffy leader and activate it's effect discarding 1 card and placing 2 big characters from your grave into your life.

4th- Play a baby from your hand that corresponds with your top life (usually Sabo) and voilà you become a 9k leader with 1 life.

This play can be followed up with Moria plus luffy leader on effect to make the same board state of 9k leader with 1 life. Now most players wont leave you at 1 life but you can use either Makino or Flambé to set up the combo.

This strategy is also how we get around RP Law bottoming our blocker and going for game with Shuraiya. 

OP-07

My thoughts on OP-07 are not fully fleshed out since I have been focusing in the EB-01 meta so i'll keep it brief. We have a lot to look forward to deck building wise with the addition of the new OP07 Luffy.

Luffy being able to K.O a 4 cost or less and draw a card lets us become a more of a control deck and with cards like Kuzan and Ice Age we can increase our range of targets. This opens up a new avenue where we don't need to rely on Ace to close out games as we can use Luffy to get rid of threats plus mitigate the card loss from our leader effect. 

Conclusion

Overall, BY Luffy is a good deck that will get better in the future. The deck allows players to showcase their skill by navigating their life and combo prowess. Furthermore, being a deck with a strong standard play in moria and leader effect that nets you ten plus don usually makes for a good deck.

I would like to shout out everyone who has helped me from the 956 to everyone in my testing groups. you can catch me on stream playing everyday from 4-7 pm cdt on https://www.twitch.tv/quint7 and follow me on https://twitter.com/QuintOPTCG. Thank you for reading.

[JP/OP07] 3 Flagships, 14 Wins – 1 Lost with Yellow Black Luffy (ST13)

Introduction

Hi! I’m @ItsEnigmaaa on twitter from Malaysia, and I recently piloted a Black Yellow Luffy deck, winning 2 straight flagships and losing in the finals of the 3rd. I was previously an Enel player for the past 5 months, but kept losing to Lucci, so decided to switch to BY Luffy and was able to go 14-1 from my first flagship with it! The deck I used and original twitter post can be found below. Also, shoutout to my small TCG team CB9, I was originally a Yu-Gi-Oh player, but got dragged into One Piece by them and haven’t looked back since.

Click into the Image for the decklist in One Piece Top Decks

The post gained a lot of traction from players in the west still in EB01 format, and fellow players in the east for running raitei and only 1 kid ace. Thank you for your interest! This article will explain BY Luffy’s position in the 07 meta, my personal construction and how to play each matchup. At the time of these tournaments, these were also the last flagships in 07, so I think of this as the solved construction I would run, at least in Malaysia meta. It’s a long article, but I hope to cover a lot. 

BY Luffy position in OP7

BY Luffy’s strengths can be broken down into:

  1. Make your opponents midgame characters useless. Once you start your engine, any character that your opponent played below 9k power in early turns is just a card they never get back.
  2. Fill board quickly with high power characters
  3. Loop Sabo to prevent board removal

A 10 don Moria turn from BY Luffy is the strongest turn in the game.

The top decks in the 07 environment are RP Law, BY Luffy and Lucci, followed by t2 decks Enel, Bonnie and Perona. The 07 meta is a bit rock-paper-scissors ish, where every deck has one extremely hard matchup. However, for BY luffy I think the matchups are:

VS RP Law 50-50

VS Lucci/Moria 75-25 favoured

VS Enel 50-50(depending on build)

VS Bonnie 30-70 unfavoured

VS Perona 50-50

Once you start your engine against RP Law, all their characters have to invest at least 2 Don to hit you, making their turns suboptimal. Lucci/Moria decks just lose because their deck cannot remove anything due to Sabo. Enel is a deck that never has extra Don to swing you because they have to play a big character, and you can avoid KO effects from Perona while all your characters are 5cost.

The only tough matchup is Bonnie because of 9c Zoro, but as Bonnie struggles against RP Law and black decks, the deck isn’t very popular. This makes BY Luffy one of the best decks in 07, having at least a 50/50 matchup into everything, and the power floor of the deck is so high that rogue decks don’t threaten you.

Decklist

The decklist is pretty standard across all BY Luffy builds, the only new additions are

  1. 5c Rocket Luffy
  2. 3c Ivankoff
  3. 2c Raitei
  4. 10c Kuzan
  5. Lastly, 2 adult ace and 1 kid ace

I’ll explain when these cards are used in which matchup in the matchup section below as well, but to put it briefly:

5c Rocket Luffy – RP Law counter. KO shuraiya and bon clay. Also KOs Rebecca in black decks, and allows you to draw 1 and sustain engine

3c Ivankoff – RP Law counter. 4k base so the opponent must Gordon to remove it. Against RP Law we want to Moria bring back Ivankoff standing, and only transform 1 kid to become 7k base and 1 life

2c Raitei – RP Law and BY mirror. It’s my favourite card in the deck. The don management matches up perfectly for starting your engine in turn 4: Against RP law 2don raitei, 2don leader ability, 2 don play a kid. Against mirror, 2don raitei KO their 5c Luffy and play a 5 drop.

10c Kuzan – Enel and Bonnie counter. The general strategy playing against BY luffy is to not touch their life and build board, forcing them to drop cards from hand like Hiyori and kids to start the engine. Against slow decks that go wide and don’t touch your life early, you have time to drop 10c Kuzan, which also makes 9c characters like zoro and Yamato in KO range of rocket luffy. This slot is usually Kuzan or Ice Age, but I prefer Kuzan as its stronger into Ener and the Mirror, reusable, and having to ice age zoro 2 turns in a row makes it so that you have to drop 4 cards from your hand instead of playing Moria.

As you can see, a lot of the tech cards are for RP Law haha, but it’s currently one of the most common and strongest decks of the format. Lastly, regarding Ace ratios, I just never need Ace. Adult ace is a counterless card, and when I think about when I want to play Ace over another adult, there is none. We will always drop sabo + 5c 8k luffy on t3+t4, and we have to start the engine on t5, so there is no space for Ace. It can be useful as a surprise lethal, but good players will always be aware anyway, so I only want to see it late game after I finish playing all my Morias, at which point if you played 2-3 moria, you will probably win anyway. 3 copies because I only need to see 1 Ace by turn 8. Finally, the most important part in One Piece, how to play each matchup. 

I try to go second in all games as I run 10 kuzan, and starting engine on t4 is nicer if you can follow up with moria t5.

Matchups and how to play

BY Luffy is a timer deck. You will always be starting your engine on t4 and t5 against good players, and every moria turn late game is basically a -2 cards from hand (Play Moria, leader ability discard 1). As such, when playing for and against BY Luffy, every late game turn is basically a -1 to hand(draw for turn).

You can do the math pretty easily on how many cards you will have when you start your engine: Start engine on turn 5, you have 5 cards starting hand + 4 cards from life + 4 cards from draw phase – 2 cards from 5 drops = 11 cards, which you will have to use another 4 (kids + makino) to start your engine. This means starting from t5, you will only have 7/8 cards in hand for the rest of the game, and you can expect to lose 1 each turn after. You will lose the game if you cannot kill your opponent by then. Thankfully, because all your characters are 8k and below, you don’t have to guard rested characters.

VS RP Law:

Mulligan for 5c 8k luffy, 5c Sabo, kid luffy. Against RP Law, 5c 8k luffy is the only character that sticks around due to 8k base. The RP Law player will try to poke you with leader to 2 life while setting up a wide board, and then go for lethal when we are 2 life and haven’t started engine. We want to just survive the initial 3 turns while taking as much of their life as possible, and then start engine on turn 4. The general turn progress is:

2 don play garp->4 don leader 5k garp 6k->6 don leader 6k play 5c luffy to trash life->8 don start engine->10 don moria bring back ivankoff and rocket luffy to KO shuraiya/bon clay

Key thing to note here is that you only need to be 7k base against RP law, since investing 2 don for card in hand is awkward for RP law if they use their leader ability multiple times early. Going 9k + sabo is also risky as they can just bot deck the sabo with Gordon. The ideal late game is to play Moria, bring back Ivankoff standing and a kid luffy, then transform into rocket luffy to KO shuraiya/bon clay and keep smacking face. The toughest part is dodging the turn 4 lethal from rp law without losing too many cards, but once you have rocket luffy in rotation and can play moria late game, they don’t have a way to efficiently remove 9k base and you will outvalue them with rocket luffy.

VS Mirror:

Mulligan for 5c 8k luffy, Moria and sabo. Go 2nd, because I play 10kuzan. I won’t touch my opponent’s life early, and will only start hitting with leader if I can threaten lethal. Against BY Luffy, you want to force them to start their engine by dropping cards like flampe and kids. Never put a BY player to 0 life for free. Unfortunately, the matchup is quite dependent on who draws more Moria, but its important to create chances early game by threatening lethal: if you have 3 attacks and opp has 2 life, start with 5k leader swing and see if your opponent wants to save cards in hand or drop more cards but start their engine.

In the mirror, know when to swing and when to let characters die. Basically, I never swing unless I can get 3 cards out of my opponents hand by threatening lethal, and in the late game, when both you and your opponent become 9k base, cards like 8k luffy lose value. I don’t mind having my characters like 8k luffy die because late game they’re useless. Your ideal moria targets are sabo and rocket luffy, so that you can get a blocker + draw 1, this makes it so that your net card loss a turn is 0. Please use rocket luffy first, then sabo after so you can throw usless cards drawn with luffy. 

I considered playing 5c Sabo from ST13, as you can KO your opponent’s 5c 8k luffy on curve, but Raitei is too good into RP Law, and you can always Raitei+5 drop on turn 4, so Sabo was cut from the list.

VS Lucci/Moria

Go second. Mulligan criteria is just 5 sabo. This matchup is straightforward. The only way you lose this matchup is if they can set up 2 9ks(issho and moria) in the early game, and then just 4c Rebecca-5c Sabo blocker loop you while punching 9k twice every turn. If they only have 1 9k attacker a turn, then you will automatically win by drawing moria since you lose net 0 cards each turn: remember, rocket luffy draw 1 + draw phase draw 1 – leader ability discard 1 – play moria 1 card = net 0 card loss. As long as you can start your engine before 2 9ks show up, you have a 90% chance to win. Just punch life until they die. If you have a chance to play 5c luffy or 5c sabo on turn 3, please play sabo first, so that you can at least have 2 characters on board if you cannot draw a second sabo. This makes it harder for the black player to KO both characters in one turn. 

VS Enel

Mulligan criteria is 10kuzan, 5luffy, moria. Enel’s wincon is to delay the game enough to set up enough big bodies to go for lethal. Enel players won’t touch your life and play katakuri to put your 5drops into life before swinging to botdeck them. The reason for this is because once by Luffy starts their engine, only 9c yamato and 10c ace are able to touch the leader, and the enel player will fall behind if they only have 2 attacks each turn vs you that can just smack 5k base leader. This slower gameplay gives you time to play 10c Kuzan, which allows you to rocket luffy KO everything except 10c ace. 

A common boardstate is:

The Enel player has just played 10c ace and is 2 life. Start with luffy attack leader 8k. If the enel player blocks, I will go 11k leader swing into a Yamato or ace, and then 9k leader with moria. If they eat the initial 8k, swing moria 9k to leader, then 11k to leader if they didn’t block, or 11k to character if Enel guarded. The beauty is that enel will always have to drop at least 6k a turn when against by luffy. It seems obvious, but please remember Enel’s ability. You will naturally win by outtrading Enel.

VS Bonnie

This is the worst matchup for BY luffy. Basically, I want to pressure them early on as much as possible by attacking life. After dropping the first sabo on turn 3, I will never have a chance to swing with my leader again without losing my sabo, so the attacks before the first 5 drop are your only chance at hitting Bonnie. After that, I will stop hitting, and will drop rocket luffy on the turn before 9c zoro, so that I can drop 10c kuzan the next turn and ko zoro. This is the only way to beat Bonnie. Good Bonnie players will have to guess between ice age and kuzan on your build, but dropping a rocket luffy before your 10 don turn is like publicly announcing ‘I’m playing 10c Kuzan’. Dropping rocket luffy before the zoro turn forces your opponent to either hody jones and clear kuzan, or attack you and put you to 0, forcing you to start engine and not play kuzan. This is the most important turn for BY luffy. If you can survive this turn and drop 10c kuzan, you have a chance. As you can rocket luffy KO everything in bonnie’s deck while recovering resources. 

I also always want to have 2 sabos in rotation. Its obvious that 1 sabo will get rested whenever my leader attacks, so remember to have 2 on board.

Thank you for reading this far! It’s a long article, but I wanted to cover the different matchups. If you enjoyed reading, please follow me on Twitter (https://x.com/ItsEnigmaaa) where I regularly post flagship results. 

[EN/EB01] Short Article: ST13 Ace Wano Deck (yellow)

Author: Francisco José (Spain)

Deck Introduction

This version of B/Y Ace is primarily focused on exploiting the leader's ability with cards that have strong effects in exchange for taking a life, such as Flampe and Shimotsuki, and the capability of healing lives with Hiyori and Viola.

Game Plan

3 Dejiro and 4 Momonosuke (click into the image for completed decklist)

Early Game: First of all, you always want to go first since your main combo, which I will explain later, requires you to have 9/10 Don. The main cards you are looking for on mulligan are C3 Yamato (only if you go first), Flampe, Viola, and Hiyori. You want to be as aggressive as possible, trying to apply pressure with C3 Yamato, Shimotsuki, and attacking strongly with the Leader.

Mid Game: At this point in the game, you should try to set up a favorable board to apply pressure while preparing one of your main combos. Try to play as many characters as you can and keep attacking the enemy leader. Since you are playing B/Y Ace, many opponents will expect you to play Pudding, so they might start using counters to avoid overfilling their hands.

Late Game: If the game drags on, you will probably end up losing against any meta deck, so you need to start thinking about finishing the game. To accomplish this, you have one of your tech cards, Gun Modoki. With this card, you can do very unexpected strong attacks with characters like Denjiro, C7 Yamato, and Kin'emon.

MVPs and Main Combos

The most important set of cards in the deck are the trio of Hiyori, Momonosuke, and Viola. Gun Modoki is another key card, as it is one of your main win conditions when the game becomes difficult to close out. Here are the 2 main combos the deck is based on:

  1. On your turn with 9/10 Don while having a Wano character on the board (Hiyori is the best target), use Ace's ability to put a C5 card in your life > Play Momonosuke to add that Wano character on top of your life > Play Viola to flip those 2 cards face down so they no longer go to the trash. This way, you will have healed 2 lives and have 2 blockers in play.

  2. "Free" Gun Modoki: Add 1 character to your lives with Ace's ability + Onami on one of your Wano characters. The best target for this combo is Kin'emon since you can pay 1 Don and life to reactivate the character and, in the best case, trash 4 lives (this has only happened to me once since I've been playing this deck), but you can do it with any other Wano character to trash 2 lives.

Matchups

Most matchups are played similarly, as you always want to set up the board to perform the leader’s ability + Momonosuke + Viola combo while wearing down your rival. However, there are a couple of specific matchups to consider:

●  Moria: Contrary to what it may seem, this matchup isn’t too bad since it usually gives you time to set up your board, and you have cards like Denjiro that are very effective against black leaders. Play as aggressively as possible, completely ignoring the board.

●  Enel: This is an unfavorable matchup, but one you can win thanks to the surprise of Gun Modoki. Try to leave your opponent at 2 lives whenever possible to take them off at once. Even if they have only 1 life and you think you can finish him, put Gun Modoki on the character that is going to attack so if the trigger (like Amaru or You're the One Who Should Disappear) comes out, they will lose that life instantly.

●  R/P Law: This is possibly the worst matchup you have. It is one of the few cases where you should focus on attacking the enemy characters whenever possible before targeting the enemy leader.

●  B/Y Luffy: Focus on setting up the board and attacking only when you see the best opportunity to win. I’m thinking about adding 2 Gravity Blade Raging Tiger to improve this and other matchups, as it provides a tool to remove 2 blockers from the board easily.

 

Deck Strengths:

●  The element of surprise, as no one expects this version of the deck, which can lead to many unexpected victories.

●  The ability to heal two lives at once.

●  A very fun deck to play.

Deck Weaknesses:

●  Inconsistency, you are highly dependent on Hiyori and Viola to make the deck work, and there is no reliable way to search for them. Additionally, you might end up not hitting a C5 character with Ace's ability when needed.

●  Bad matchup against the best deck in the format (R/P Law).

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