Yamato can take chance to attack to opponent's early to rush to reduce opponent's hand cards or life. Some players will just attached as much DON!! as possible if they see no blocker on board. 

Because of to Yamato in OP6, we can see more blockers that are added into the Gecko Moria or Sakazuki decks.

There is no way to stop the Leader from attacking, the only card can to that for now is OP5 green Arlong.

Against those meta decks like Sakazuki, Enel and Katakuri, I like to flood the board as much as
possible with Green Mihawk and FILM Brook and just overwhelm my opponent with aggression. Against more aggressive decks like Zoro or WB, Luffy and Uta Blocker is key since Luffy can swing and try to remove their attackers and Blocker Uta can restand him later to block during the opponent's turn.

The global deck strategy : you need to see early Bepo or Saschi to shamble on early turn and put a lot of pressure quick (on 4 don or 5 don). A nice play on 4 dons is Uti page One and shamble or Trafalgar law remove one character and shamble (always put saschi first). Another nice play on 5 dons is Zoro 6k remove a character and shamble with Bepo or Saschi (always shaschi and penguin first).

Vs Katakuri you want to see your character who reduce the power of katakuri character, most of katakuri character are 5k and you can remove it easily even if they trigger. The best card in this match up for katakuri is big mom 7, randolph and perospero 8k With gordon and another reducer you can remove litteraly all threat of katakuri, so keep your gordon or put it on late turn when your opponent doesnt want to use streusen or amande on it.

Vs Doffy : Law -2k , Zoro -2k Brook, are key cards because they allowed us to developped big board stage and reduce the power of doflamingo board. Your 6k attacker are really good in this match up, because it's really hard for doflamingo to remove your 6k attacker because he has to invest more don on it. Often best doflamingo do not attack your life and try to starve you, that's why you can wait and shamble later if you don't see shachi or bepo, and use more Don to developed your board.

Vs RG Law all you need to see is Bepo or Shachi, you can shamble on 4-5 Dons put a lot of pressure, keep Gordon to remove Law blocker. This matchup is a really good match up for RP Law

Vs RP Luffy, you want to maximize your board and attack with a lot of 6k, that's why heat, zoro, Page one are really good cards in this match up. Do not hesitate in this match up to use a 2k counter early to defend against a 6k attack and keep life high.

With RP Law you will often accept to take your two first life even sometime 3 first life if you have blocker in hand, because in exchange you can put a lot of pressure on your opponent and if your opponent decide to go for a lethal, you don't have that many bricks and you have a lot of blocker. (Queen) and you can shamble your law/uta/blackmaria

The deck main strategy is to ramp as fast as possible in order to get to your late game boss monsters and use them to pressure your opponent life while defending optimally with cards that boost you leader (like 7 cost kid) or efficient blockers (like queen or law) that let you ignore the opponents board. In every match up the most important card, by far, is 7 cost kid, when played on curve it limits the ability of your opponent to attack your leader, making you save a lot of cards defensivly and also pressures offensivly forcing the opponent to deal with a guaranteed 8k and 7k attack every turn. 7 cost kidd also gives you the ability to play at 11 dons once you hit 10, using his ability you -1 and with the leaders ability you immediatly ramp that don active. 

VS KATAKURI: this is a slightly negative match up, you prefer going second, since you are gonna be able to play you 7 cost kid before your opponent has 8 dons, which means they are not gonna play kata and bottom life it. 

The key in this match up is to be as aggressive as possible, counter the first lifes, establish your 7 cost kid on curve, if you have a second one play it, otherwise play bullet or 10 cost luffy and pressure the opponent as much as possible, when you hit 1 life you can start playing your blockers, mainly queen, as it can also be an attacker in the next turn in case you have to go for lethal. 

In this match up is also very important to keep in mind how much counter power you need for the opponent turn, so if you don't need to leave a don open for the 1 cost counter, or you don't need to play blockers, don't do it and make sure to use your dons to attack as optimally as possible. 

VS DOFFY G/P: this is luffy best match up, you prefer going second and again the best card is 7 cost kid, when you see atleast one of him you should never lose, another important card in the match up 10 cost luffy, as it basically forces your opponent to counter attacks insted of blocking them, making them play unoptimally. 

When you don't see your 7 cost kid, you should be very carefull of you opponents spamming 6k attacks with their film chacarters, which they are gonna flood the board with very early with brook, when this scenario happens you are gonna be in a racing battle with your opponent for closing out the game, in which bullet can be crucial, since he ignores blockers and gets double attack. 

Also note that in this match up you should almost never trade the opponents characters since most of them are 5k and your leader is 6k, if you start trading insted of going for life, you are gonna give your opponent too much value and end up losing. 

VS LAW R/P: this is a slightly positive amtch up for luffy, you prefer going first to avoid the opponent getting the 4 cost law effect off, which is one off their win conditions in the match up. You should mulligan for 7 cost kid and 9 cost whitebeard, playing htem allows you to pressure the opponent making them either resolve the character, which is gonna cost them the whole turn without attacking the leader optimally because of the boost, or if they can't do that they will have to go aggressive on your boosted leader, which is gonna be very easy to counter. 

This is bullets best match up, when you don't see your leader buffers nad the opponent is pressurung your leader too much, you can play bullet, which is most of the times gonna be cleared only by round table, and have the option of going for lethal the next turn.

I have been playing Rebecca since I started in August. I built a deck back in OP03 meta just to play some games but I was already focused on the OP04 meta were I knew I would play Rebecca because I really like the control gameplay of it and it seemed like it was going to be a top deck. However, compared to the Asian meta here in Europe it evolved a bit differently and I think in a more unfavorable way for Rebecca. I thought about playing something else but I also knew my months of practice with the deck would have paid out with a bit of luck with the match ups. The main reason to play Rebecca is to have a good match up into the red decks, which I knew would have been most prevalent at the regional.
I also like the match up against Queen and G/P Doflamingo which are 2 decks that people like to play to counter Whitebeard. Therefore, I was theoretically very confident of the position the deck had in the meta with only Katakuri being a nightmare to face but I figured the deck would struggle in the late rounds of the tournament due to bad match ups against WB and Law.

Strategy

Rebecca is a control deck, its main strategy is to develop a board while destroying what your opponent is presenting on the other side of the table. In most matchups, you want to play down a Kyros in the first turns which will act like your leader since it is almost indestructible, especially if you also deploy the colosseum alongside it. Kyros is fundamental against Law and Zoro as it also destroys something when it gets played and it allows you to attack your opponent characters, take cards out of their hands but also apply pressure on their leader.

With this deck you will see a lot of cards with the leader effect, but you need to be mindful of remaining with less than 6 cards in hand, so you almost always want to discard to counter out attacks and keep your life total high. If you don’t counter enough you will get into situations where you are not able to activate your leader and you are basically playing without the ability to attack and without a leader effect so you effectively lose all your advantage.

Rebecca is strong because you are able to draw 2 cards a turn, if you lose that advantage you miss all the reason you are playing the deck for and you will almost certainly end up losing. I believe the deck is very intricate and you need to know well what you are looking for because every turn you are presented with a choice to pick between 2 cards and if you make mistakes you are going to lose.

Your initial hand is also important, you want to have a 2k counter in hand to avoid the scenario I presented above and you want to use your mulligan and leader to see important cards in the match up.
These will be:
–Kyros in almost every game a part from Whitebeard were I will say it is your worst card to draw since it doesn’t hit anything important and you don’t want to pay a Don to have to attack with it;
–2k counter against WB, you want to have as a many as possible to not lose life in the early game;
– Orlumbus is key against WB and non-red decks, it is the engine of your deck and what allows you to destroy high cost characters;
– Three thousand worlds, this is a card you are looking for in your initial hand against WB and Zoro since it is the only card you can’t fetch with the leader and you need to naturally draw it to not lose to Marco.
– Sabo is key against Zoro and Katakuri since it protects your characters and cleans your hand from unneeded cards.
– Luffy is a card you want to have against decks such as Queen and G/P Doflamingo that don’t apply too much pressure. In the red matches you are looking for it only in the mid to late game and you may pass on picking it at the beginning because you don’t want to have too many non-counter cards in hand. You always have to be mindful of the possibility to mill yourself out so there will be spots in which even if you don’t need Luffy you have to take it and play it just to put cards at the bottom of the deck.

Regarding the match ups against the top decks:
– Whitebeard is I think an even match, the game will usually always develop in a similar way with them trying to pressure you and you trying to destroy what they are doing while using your 2k counter to not lose life early. To win you must get to a spot in which you drop Luffy, you maybe do one attack then you restand it and you wait to do 2 big attacks in one
turn while using your cards to destroy their blocker. Win or lose will usually depend on how many rush Luffy they will play and how many blocker they will present to you in the final turn.
– Zoro is a good match up for you but you need to not lose too many lives early to not randomly lose to a Diable Jamble in the late game.
– Law I believe is your best match up (even if I lost to it in the final) since what they are doing matches very badly with what you are doing. The fact they only have 4 life means that you can also pressure them easily and they rely on 1 cost blocker to defend themselves which you easily can get rid of.

However, I wish I have tested the match up a bit more because their deck is also very dynamic, and they can play it out in many different ways which I have to admit I was not prepared for all of them.

–Katakuri is honestly just terrible, everything that they are doing is bad for you, starting from the leader that asks you to discard 2 cards just from a 1 Don investment to 10cost Big Mom which you almost can’t destroy. In the early game Perospero is also very bad for you because if you destroy it will go look for Big Mom so you need to invest your three thousand worlds on it. A triggered character at the wrong time can also present you with one more attack you were not anticipating but at the same time if you don’t get aggressive in any way you are just going to lose. Thunderbolt is great against you because it destroys Orlumbus and blockers in the late game.

To be honest I don’t have a genius plan against Katakuri, you just do your things and hope they don’t do theirs, knowing if they do you almost certainly lose. The only thing you can do to play better against Katakuri is to build your deck differently by playing 10 cost Kuzan and more Trueno Bastardo that together​ with Orlumbus allows you to deal with Big Mom.

However, I decided not to do it since by building your deck that way you lose percentage points against your other good match ups and you only gain some points against Katakuri, it doesn’t suddenly become a good match up. Overall, especially in a long tournament like this, I think by building your deck to play better against Katakuri you are going to lose more than you win.
Finally, as I said, the deck is very complicated, you need to practice it a lot and you need to develop your observation haki to be able to look a couple of turns into the future to know exactly what your opponent wants to do.

Funnily enough, as I write this article, I realize that I’m saying a lot “you lose to” and not “you win by”, but I think this is the tough reality of
how you should approach this deck. You should first understand the scenarios in which you lose in the early game because once you get to the late game you are almost certainly going to win. At the same time, I also want to note that there will be scenarios in which if​ you don’t get aggressive soon enough you may take control of the game, but you still risk of losing it, so you have to be very mindful of it.